2012 Syrah

I can't say enough good things about what a great job Aaron Miller has done at Plumpjack since taking over from Tony Biagi in 2012. These wines haven't missed a beat. The 2012s are fabulous, while the 2013s may turn out to be even better. This is one of the most privileged spots in Napa Valley, and it shows in rich wines of uncommon elegance and pure Napa Valley intensity. The straight Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of all the best parcels on the property, while the Reserve emerges from volcanic soils on the eastern side of the property that yield wines of greater intensity and structure. Plumpjack's Merlot and Syrah are made from purchased fruit, but they are just as delicious as the estate wines. The 2012s are rich and opulent in the best sense, while the 2013s are darker, but not as tannic as they are at so many other estates. In 2013, Miller chose to shorten skin contact a bit, as the wines extracted very easily and he wanted to avoid ending up with massive tannins and oversized wines. It appears that choice worked quite well.

As I wrote last year, Plumpjack is in the midst of a transition. Winemaker Tony Biagi's last vintage was 2011. Aaron Miller took over with the 2012 vintage and also blended and bottled the 2011s. It's too soon to know if there are going to be any stylistic changes at Plumpjack, but the transition appears to have gone smoothly. In 2012 Miller opted for cold soaks and longer macerations than in 2011, when Biagi favored shorter macerations, no doubt in response to the challenging vintage. It will be interesting to see the direction Miller takes. I found the 2012s a bit less expressive from barrel than normal, but that is something I saw at a number of properties. I am looking forward to tasting the wines again early next year.