2009 Bettina

Perched on Pritchard Hill above the shores of Lake Hennessey, Bryant is without question one of the most spectacular vineyards in Napa Valley. I don't see any reason why the Cabernets that emerge from this property shouldn't be among the top 5-10 wines in the valley each and every year, but continuity is the key to making that happen. Following the departure of Helen Turley in 2002, Bryant has employed Philippe Melka, Mark Aubert, Ross Wallace, Helen Keplinger and now Todd Alexander, who took over in October 2012.

The big news here is that Don Bryant has introduced a second wine in 2009, the Bettina, made from fruit from vineyards owned by vineyard-manager-to-the-stars David Abreu. Winemaker Helen Keplinger told me that the last three vintages have been progressively higher in acidity and lower in alcohol, which is by no means a bad thing for Napa Valley cabernet. She noted that the wines spend about 30 days on their skins, including a pre-fermentation cold soak that lasts between 3 and 7 days. Her strategy involves doing a lot of extraction early on, then backing off as the fermentations get into full swing.

This hillside vineyard occupies a gorgeous position above Lake Hennessey. The wines capture the very best qualities of what makes Napa Valley so compelling. Although they are quite showy when young, the wines also age exceptionally well. The 2009s are strikingly beautiful. They aren't huge wines, but rather Cabernets that impress for their superb balance. The 2010s will thrill readers who appreciate a bolder, more powerful style. The Bettina Bryant is a new wine Don Bryant has dedicated to his wife Bettina. The Bettina Bryant is a new wine Don Bryant has dedicated to his wife Bettina made from fruit sourced from David Abreu's vineyards Madrona Ranch, Thorevilos and Lucia Howell Mountain. I was also able to convince Don Bryant to show me the second wine of Bryant, DB Four, although it took every ounce of my persuasive powers.