Kühling-Gillot

“With recent acquisitions, we now have nine hectares in the Roter Hang” of Nackenheim and Nierstein, noted Carolin Gillot, “and that gives us enough to finally play on the entire keyboard.” The range here will now routinely feature two Kabinetts (hurrah!) and a Spätlese, all from the Pettenthal, and nobly sweet bottlings are apt to occur more frequently – did they ever in 2016! – provided, of course, that there is any botrytis worth seeking out. Gillot reports an even wider discrepancy than usual in picking dates between her wines from the Roter Hang and those of her husband Oliver Spanier from the chalky southwest corner of Rheinhessen. The couple was harvesting Nackenheim and Nierstein Riesling in earnest by the last week of September. “It wasn’t an entirely easy vintage,” she noted, “and at the Gutsriesling level we had to be very selective because although there was not much botrytis, there was a lot of desiccation and overripeness, and as far as we’re concerned there are already enough Gutsrieslinge from this vintage of 13.5 percent alcohol.” By contrast, even her Grosse Gewächse this year did not reach 12.5 percent. “None of the dry wines reflects one bit of botrytis,” added Gillot, “and this year we sorted with a new vibrating table.” A new press also arrived in time for this vintage.

From Rheinhessen and Nahe 2015: Cool Concentration from a “Warm Vintage” (Nov 2017) by David Schildknecht

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