### Six Decades of Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon: 1967-2012

For six decades Bob Travers made some of the most compelling, age worthy and profound Napa Valley wines at Mayacamas. These magnificent Cabernet Sauvignons capture an artisan spirit from a long-gone era in Napa Valley that is only now being rediscovered and fully appreciated for what it is: one of the richest legacies in Napa Valley, the United States and the world.

The early Mayacamas Cabernets were made from a combination of estate fruit and grapes purchased from nearby ranches, which was not unusual at the time. Travers aged is Cabernets for about three years in barrel, long by Napa Valley standards and a regime he stuck with until the end. Travers bottled cask by cask over periods of time, which is why there is a level of bottle variation with Mayacamas Cabernets. A handful of recent tastings provided a great opportunity to get a look at how a number of the reference-point vintages are holding up today. At their best, the Mayacamas Cabernets are spellbinding wines that will thrill those lucky enough to find them for several decades.

One of the most iconic estates of Napa Valley, Mayacamas boasts a rich legacy that goes all the way back to the 1890s. The property's modern-day history begins in 1941 when the Taylor family resurrected a rugged hillside estate in the Mayacamas mountains, on what is now more commonly known as Mount Veeder, and started making and bottling their own wines. In 1968, the Taylors sold Mayacamas to Bob Travers and his wife, Elinor. A Stanford-educated petroleum engineer, Travers caught the wine bug in the late 1950s. That passion intensified in the following years, leading Travers to enroll at the University of California, where he took a number of courses in wine. One harvest with Joe Heitz in 1967 convinced Travers to buy his own piece of land. Mayacamas first gained global attention when the 1971 Cabernet Sauvignon was included in the famous ‘Judgement of Paris’ tasting in 1976, the first time American wines proved they could stand next to the established benchmarks of France.

In May of 2013, Charles Banks and his wife, Ali, partnered with the Schottenstein family to buy Mayacamas. Banks had attempted several times to purchase Mayacamas, but it took him a number of years to put together the right team to get the deal done. Unlike other Napa Valley properties that have sold recently such as Sloan and Araujo, Mayacamas needs work. A lot of work. Over the years and decades, the vineyards have fallen into a state of neglect, which means the entire 58 acres of vines will need to be replanted over the next 5-7 years, something only a long-term investor can even contemplate, much less execute. Restoring Mayacamas is truly a labor of love, as the results of the work being done today will not be fully realized until a generation from now. Money is often viewed as the most important asset in business. But a lot of people have money. And money can be earned or borrowed, just as it can be lost. Then there is time. Time is something entirely different. Time can't be earned or borrowed. That is why it is the most important asset in running a successful business. Banks has time on his side, which makes him the ideal investor to lead Mayacamas through this transition and into the future.

_![](https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1402499647552-MayacamasVinesTornOut.jpg)_

_Old, diseased vines right after having been ripped out_

Banks created quite a stir when he brought Andy Erickson in to be the winemaker. Erickson has been behind a number of high-profile wines in recent years, none as iconic as Screaming Eagle. A view began to form that perhaps Erickson would try to totally modernize Mayacamas. Personally, I doubt that is going to happen. Erickson is one of the most thoughtful winemakers in Napa Valley. The more likely, and frankly interesting question is to what extent is Mayacamas going to influence Erickson’s work going forward. Erickson is no longer at Screaming Eagle, but he is heavily involved at a number of estates in the valley, including Dalla Valle, Ovid, Arietta and his own labels Favia and Leviathan. One change with the 2013 harvest is the arrival of a new sorting table, hardly radical but an addition nonetheless. Annie Favia, Erickson's wife, and Phil Coturri are overseeing vineyard management. I don’t know a single viticulturist who has more of an innate connection with the hillsides of Napa Valley and Sonoma than Phil Coturri. If anyone can coax this site back to health, he can.

I visited Mayacamas last September just as large chunks of vines were being torn out. One of the things I was most struck by was how remote and rugged the sprawling property is. It is not easy to get around Mayacamas. Frankly, it is virtually impossible to imagine what conditions must have been like here in the 1960s. Because of the very early harvest, some of the wines in tank were already nearly dry. The lots I tasted from tank were dark, intense and highly intriguing. Needless to say, it is going to be fascinating to watch the next chapter of Mayacamas's history unfold over the coming years and decades.

_![](https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1402501033521-MayacamsAndyErickson+-+cropped.jpg)_

_Current Winemaker Andy Erickson_

**[Show all the Wines](http://vinousmedia.com/wines?wine_filter%5Barticle_id%5D=434&wine_filter%5Bproducer_id%5D=2748&producer=true)**

The **1967 Cabernet Sauvignon** was still in barrel when Bob Travers bought the property in 1968. With time in the glass the 1967 opens up beautifully, releasing some of the aromas that are a bit reticent at first. Tar, black cherries, smoke, licorice and incense are all highly expressive. A dark, powerful, brooding wine, the 1967 Cabernet Sauvignon impresses for its pure depth, power and intensity. For a wine of its age the 1967 possesses stunning mid-palate depth and tons of richness. What a treat it is to taste this historic, iconic Cabernet from Mayacamas. The 1967 will drink well for a number of years, although the likelihood of equaling the level of provenance of this bottle, which comes from the estate's library, is frankly quite slim. **92** /Drinking window: 2014 -2017. Crushed flowers, dried herbs, tobacco, cedar and spices lift from the glass in the **1968 Cabernet Sauvignon** , the first wine Bob Travers made from start to finish at Mayacamas. The 1968 is fully mature but also incredibly nuanced and beautiful. I imagine that in a blind tasting, the 1968 could easily be mistaken for a Bordeaux First Growth. What a treat it is to taste the 1968 today. **94** /Drinking window: 2014. One of the most iconic wines made at the property, the **1973 Cabernet Sauvignon** boasts a level of pure intensity and structure, along with plenty of distinct St. Estèphe-inflected nuances. Hints of cedar, tobacco and scorched earth meld into a core of deep, dense, dark fruit as the 1973 shows off its utterly captivating personality. The 1973 is one of those wines that takes hold of all the sense and never lets up. In a word: profound. **96** /Drinking window: 2014-2023.

_![](https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1402499696240-Mayacamas1973.jpg)_

_The 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the many great wines that were made here during the 1970s, a Golden Age for Mayacamas_

Mint, sage, tobacco and underbrush add complexity to the **1974** , another dark, powerful **Cabernet Sauvignon** from Mayacamas. The aromatics are a bit more forward than the palate, with slightly oxidative notes that become more prominent over time. There is plenty of depth in the glass, though, so I can see the 1974 remaining at a plateau of maturity for some time. My preference would be to drink any remaining bottles sooner rather than later. Firm, coarse tannins would seem to place 1974 among the more rustic vintages here, although I have had much better bottles than this. Readers should consult the Vinous database for more representative examples. **89** /Drinking window: 2014. Two bottles of the **1975 Cabernet Sauvignon** , aren't totally clean. Unfocused aromatics mar what is otherwise a deep, fleshy wine with good freshness and plenty of depth.

Sweet floral and spice notes add an attractive element of perfume and lift to the **1976 Cabernet Sauvignon**. Tasted after the 1978, the 1976 presents similar density, but with a bit more aromatic complexity and slightly less overall power. The fruit is also distinctly red-toned, with suggestions of plum, smoke, tobacco and cloves that flesh out on the soft, resonant finish. What a gorgeous wine this is. **96** /Drinking window: 2014-2024. The **1977 Cabernet Sauvignon** emerges from the glass with dark red cherries, plums, smoke, tobacco, licorice and incense. This is another powerful, epic wine with plenty of life ahead of it. Mint, crushed flowers and licorice linger on an intense, layered finish supported by huge, massive tannin. Floral notes add an element of lift, but the 1977 remains quite dark and brooding in style. **94** /Drinking window: 2014-2027. The **1978 Cabernet Sauvignon** is quite simply one of the greatest Napa Valley wines I have ever tasted. Dark, powerful and explosive, the 1978 captivates all the senses with intense dark fruit, tobacco, smoke, cedar and licorice. Utterly mesmerizing from the very first taste, the 1978 shows no signs of fading. The firm tannins ensure another decade-plus of magical drinking. Readers fortunate enough to own well-stored bottles are in for an extraordinary drinking experience on a par with any wine from anywhere in the world. It's as simple as that. The 1978 remains a testament to the genius of Bob Travers and this rugged hillside site on Mt. Veeder. Here, too, provenance is everything. **100** /Drinking window: 2014-2024.

_![](https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1402499742368-MayacamsVineyards.jpg)_

_Wide vine spacing and rugged mountain viticulture are signatures of the original plantings_

The personality of the cool vintage comes through in spades in the **1981 Cabernet Sauvignon**. Although texturally quite polished and impeccable in its balance, the 1981 remains a bit compact and linear in style. In any other setting, it would probably be magnificent but here, next to so many icons, the 1981 remains only outstanding. **92** /Drinking window: 2014-2021. The **1986 Cabernet Sauvignon** is a great example of the magic that can develop in a great wine over time. Miraculously timeless, the 1986 shows just how beautiful wines from this hillside property are. Sweet herbs, dried flowers, red stone fruits and tobacco linger on the translucent, weightless finish. The 1986 turns soft, delicate and a touch fleeting over time, but it is still quite pretty and an excellent choice for drinking over the next decade or so. Today, the 1986 is a real stunner. **92** /Drinking window: 2014-2026. The **1987 Cabernet Sauvignon** impresses for its persistence and exceptional balance. A focused, brilliant wine, the 1987 is floral, perfumed and quite pretty. Compared to some of the other wines in this tasting the 1987 comes across as a bit compact and not fully expressive, which is amazing for a wine of its age. Dark stone fruits, flowers and spices linger on the close. **95** /Drinking window: 2015-2022.

I have decided to include two notes on the **1989 Cabernet Sauvignon**. Both wines are sourced from the estate's library, so provenance is impeccable. The first bottle is round, supple and totally sexy from the very first taste. Sweet, perfumed and quite sexy, the 1989 is wonderfully fragrant and expressive. The blend includes dollops of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. **95** /Drinking window: 2014-2029. A big, rustic wine, the **1989 Cabernet Sauvignon** (bottle #2) hits the palate with masses of dark stone fruits, smoke and spice. The 1989 is intense, carnal and direct, but it doesn't have the complexity or nuance of the better years. In this tasting, it suffers a bit in comparison with some of the more well rounded vintages, but it is compelling if taken on its own. **92** /Drinking window: 2014-2029.

The **1992 Cabernet Sauvignon** shows good depth, but it is quite supple and also forward, especially in its aromas. In this context, the 1992 is a rare underachiever. **88** /Drinking window: 2014. A totally seamless, impeccable wine, the **1995 Cabernet Sauvignon** is all about grace. Sweet red cherries, anise, dried flowers, mint, spices and crushed rocks abound in a beautifully expressive Cabernet Sauvignon built on pure silk. The 1995 can be enjoyed today, but it is texturally so well balanced it will drink well for many, many years. There is a slight element of brett in the 1995 that may bother some tasters more than others. **94** /Drinking window: 2014-2035.

_![](https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1402499719947-MayacamstheSevens.jpg)_

_Tasting all of the vintages ending in ‘7’, fall 2013_

The **1997 Cabernet Sauvignon** tastes almost like it was made yesterday, such is its freshness. Pliant, explosive and racy, the 1997 bursts on the palate with waves of dark red fruit. The flavors remain pretty primary, so readers who want the full Mayacamas experience will have to give the 1997 further bottle age. That is the bad news. The good news is that the 1997 is a truly special wine that will thrill readers for the next two-plus decades. **96+** /Drinking window: 2017-2037. The **1998 Cabernet Sauvignon** is a wine for classicists. Savory, floral and mineral notes abound in a wine with gorgeous aromatic complexity, but little in the way of typical Napa Valley fruit. Cedar, smoke, tobacco, sage and leather are some of the many notes that inform the tense, pointed finish. The style is definitely European-leaning in the 1998, a wine from one of the most challenging Napa Valley harvests in recent memory. **93** /Drinking window: 2014-2028. One of the more bombastic wines in this lineup, the **1999 Cabernet Sauvignon** races across the palate with a rush of pure fruit and structure. The late harvest produced a rich, viscous Cabernet Sauvignon endowed with tremendous depth and plenty of raw, visceral energy. Readers need to be patient here, as the 1999 needs more time in bottle. I imagine it will always remain exuberant in style. **94+** /Drinking window: 2017-2039.

The **2000 Cabernet Sauvignon** is another terrific choice for drinking today. Grilled herbs, cured meat, game, black plum, smoke, sage, rosemary and leather flesh out in a wine with gorgeous aromatic and flavor complexity. The rich, demi-glace like texture wraps around the palate all the way through to the finish. All of the classic, brambly Mayacamas signatures are in place. **93** /Drinking window: 2014-2040. The **2002 Cabernet Sauvignon** offers an attractive burst of fruit, but then loses most of its persistence on the mid-palate and finish. Overall, this is a solid effort, but it falls short within the context of the year and the other wines made around the same time. **88** /Drinking window: 2014-2022. Another wine with plenty of near and medium-term appeal, the **2003 Cabernet Sauvignon** is built on texture and ripeness. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke, tobacco and spices flesh out in a supple, super-ripe Cabernet Sauvignon with no hard edges. Here, too, the flavors remain surprisingly primary. The visceral thrill of the best years is missing, but there is plenty of appeal today. Dried rose petal, cinnamon and sweet red berries linger on the close. **92** /Drinking window: 2014-2028.

_![](https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1402499784063-MayacamasDiseasedVines.jpg)_

_These diseased vines yield fruit with notable depth, but the plants will soon need to be replaced_

The **2004 Cabernet Sauvignon** is soft, supple and quite open for a young Mayacamas wine. I imagine the 2004 will offer a wide window of pure drinking pleasure over the next few decades. The 2004 doesn’t have the structure of the most age worthy vintages, but it is in a beautiful place now. Readers who appreciate more tertiary elements will have to wait a few years, but the 2004 is pretty hard to resist at this stage. **95** /Drinking window: 2014-2034. The **2005 Cabernet Sauvignon** is just now beginning to enter a sweet spot where the aromatics show signs of complexity while the tannins are softening. Dark red and black stone fruits tobacco, savory herbs, smoke and new leather are all very much alive in a striking, nuanced Cabernet Sauvignon loaded with class and complexity. This is a decidedly dark, virile Cabernet with more than enough structure to drink well for many, many years. The crystalline, translucent finish alone is a thing of beauty. **97** /Drinking window: 2017-2040.

Rose petals, savory herbs, leather, mint and plum notes open up in the **2007 Cabernet Sauvignon**. Rich, fleshy and textured, the 2007 captures a gorgeous balance between the raciness of the vintage and the inherent structure of this hillside site. The fruit turns darker on the finish as the tannin firms up. Although the 2007 can be enjoyed today there is little question its best days lie ahead. This is the best bottle of the 2007 I have had recently. **96** /Drinking window: 2017-2037. At this stage, it's hard to know whether the **2012 Cabernet Sauvignon** will be marked more by its intense yet not fully formed fruit or its huge, powerful tannins. Of course, the 2012 is very, very young, so it is possible all the elements will come together over time. Either way, the 2012 looks like a slightly firmer version of the 2007 at this stage. This is going to be a fascinating vintage to follow over the next three decades, give or take. **(92-95)**/Drinking window: 2022-2042.

**Further Reading:**

[2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: Terroir Matters](http://vinousmedia.com/articles/2011-napa-valley-cabernet-sauvignon-terroir-matters-nov-2013) (November 2013)

[Five Decades of Classic Napa Valley Cabernets at Press](http://vinousmedia.com/articles/wine-food-press-st-helena-june-2013) (June 2013)

[Dinner at Press](http://vinousmedia.com/articles/wine-food-press-st-helena-apr-2011) (April 2011)

-- Antonio Galloni

_Editors Note:_

The wines in this article were tasted over the last nine months in four different sessions:

Winery visit – September 2013

Seminar at Pebble Beach Food & Wine – April 2014

Vinous office – May 2014

Tasting with proprietor Charles Banks – June 2014



Six Decades of Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon: 1967-2012

Six Decades of Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon: 1967-2012 (Jun 2014)

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