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Maxime Chuerlin Noëllat

Maxime Cheurlin, nephew of Charles Noëllat, who famously sold his estate to Lalou Bize-Leroy in 1988, has rejuvenated this domaine since joining in 2010 after two decades selling fruit to Jadot and Drouhin. Cheurlin’s wines have won accolades in recent years and put the estate back on the map. His style is quite bold and sensual, not a million miles away from Sébastien Cathiard round the corner. Maxime and his huge dog greeted me at the domaine and thankfully, this time his dog had not littered the courtyard (I have come close to stepping in an accident a couple of times). “I started the picking on September 3 in Meursault and then September 5 or 6 for the reds,” Cheurlin told me. “The yields are around 32hl/ha, which is more than in 2016.” Readers will note two sets of wine: the domaine under Georges Noëllat and Cheurlin’s expanding négociant range under his own name. There was a brief phase where I feared that Cheurlin’s wines were flirting with overripeness, but I feel he has pulled back in the last couple of vintages. His Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts cannot surpass his superb Grands-Echézeaux, though it does a damn fine job. I felt his Les Petits Monts was out of sorts on the day, though this might be due to a later malolactic than the other cuvées. Amongst his négociant wines, I am particularly impressed by his Nuits Saint-Georges Village, one of the best I came across during my tastings.

From 2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019) by Neal Martin

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2017 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Rouge

Color: Red

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