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Marchand-Tawse (Vignes de la Famille Tawse)

“It was an early flowering without too many frost issues in the Côte de Nuits,” winemaker Mark Fincham tells me from the upstairs tasting room at the winery in the heart of Nuits Saint-Georges. “It was a warm year, but never excessive like 2018, even though the harvest was earlier. The massive storm at the end of June was the most significant factor, which avoided any stress in the vines. It did impact some vineyards in Gevrey, such as Lavaux Saint-Jacques. The wines are like the year: they’re easy and well-balanced. I can’t remember any struggles that season. I knew the ripeness was there, but it didn’t really show itself at the time of picking. We started the harvest in Beaune on August 30 due to the earlier bud break. We picked until around mid-September, finishing earlier than we did this year [2023]. We didn’t do any chaptalization, and alcohol levels are all around 13%. You had to wait for the wines to come to you and didn’t have to do a lot of pump-overs. I like the wines. They’re well balanced with good ripeness, but nothing is excessive. They don’t have the density or tannic structure of 2010 or 2019, but they deliver a lot of pleasure. The wines are a good expression of terroirs. You can see the nuances. They’re charming wines.”

This was another comprehensive tasting journey through cuvées emanating from their own holdings, the nub of which was derived from their acquisition of Domaine Maume a few years ago and their négociant labels. It’s not immediately obvious, but the holdings should say Vignes de la Famille Tawse. In recent years, there has been greater consistency across the range, the result of a “team effort” between Fincham, co-owner Pascal Marchand and Thomas Dinel, who I think each have their own perspective. As with all such large-scale tastings exploring the nooks and crannies of manifold climats, the wines reflect how the season advantages some terroirs and disadvantages others depending upon appellation (ergo the amount of rainfall in June), vine age, orientation, altitude and in particular, soil type. Highlights are scattered: Pommard Les Rugiens, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux, Nuits Saint-Georges La Petite Charmotte, Mazis- and Mazoyères-Chambertin equalling their Musigny, an excellent Clos de Vougeot and one of better Corton-Charlemagne. Stylistically, the wines lean toward fresh and classically styled Pinot Noirs with assiduous use of whole bunches varying between wines.

From Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024) by Neal Martin

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2022 Beaune Teurons 1er Cru

Color: Red

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Marchand-Tawse (Vignes de la Famille Tawse)

2022 Beaune Teurons 1er Cru

2022 Beaune Tuvilains 1er Cru

2022 Beaune Clos du Roi 1er Cru

2022 Volnay Les Fremiets 1er Cru

2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru

2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru

2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Etelois

2022 Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud

2022 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

2022 Mazoyères Chambertin Grand Cru

2022 Musigny Grand Cru

2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc Vergelesses 1er Cru

2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières 1er Cru

2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Village (Sans Soufre)

2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Village

2022 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gain

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