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Louis Jadot - Domaine Gagey

As usual, I sectioned off two morning sessions to tackle the white and then the red Louis Jadot 2017s, over 100 wines in total. Chief winemaker Frédéric Barnier accompanied me through the tasting, though Thibault Gagey, son of president Pierre-Henry Gagey, joined us at around “Meursault o’clock.” Readers should note that Barnier kindly recorded a video in which he offers plenty of insight into the vintage; this can be found in the Multimedia section. I will relate just the basic information that he gave me with regard to the vintage. “We started picking around September 2 or 3 with the whites. The weather was quite good but the ambiance was so dry and the vines so thirsty that they absorbed the couple of showers that came the following week. The weather during the harvest was good but not perfect, but it was not too hot. I think the quality is higher for the whites than the reds because of the yields. The harvest finished with the top Côte de Nuits. You had to wait for the phenolic ripeness of the skins, even if the alcohol is, say, 13 degrees. You had to be patient during the ageing. The reds were open and easy to taste at first, but the density is coming with the ageing. The malolactic fermentation was quite early in 2017 and 99% of the reds went through malo before Christmas since the cellars were warm.”

As is the way when broaching such a comprehensive, multi-appellation tasting, the range encompasses both highs and, thankfully, a very few “lows.” I use quotation marks because they are not poor wines. Barnier has introduced more consistency across Jadot’s huge range, though within each appellation I find one or two that stand out: Saint-Aubin La Charmois, Meursault Charmes, Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle and Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne, to name but a few. The Grand Crus are plentiful, with their own standouts, and I will leave readers to peruse them at leisure. I have signified the exact labeling since not only is there Maison and Domaine Louis Jadot, which has implications for how it is farmed, but three or four other labels that now include the Santenay estate Domaine Prieur-Brunet, which Jadot acquired in July 2017. These are indicated in the tasting notes.

From 2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019) by Neal Martin

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2017 Bouzeron

Color: White

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Louis Jadot - Domaine Gagey

2017 Bouzeron

2017 Ladoix Clos d’Orge Blanc

2017 Pernand-Vergelesses Combottes

2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune Clos des Guettes Blanc 1er Cru

2017 Beaune Bressandes Blanc 1er Cru

2017 Beaune Grèves le Clos Blanc 1er Cru

2017 Santenay Clos des Gatsulards

2017 Chorey-lès-Beaune Les Beaumonts

2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune Clos des Guettes 1er Cru

2017 Beaune Cras 1er Cru

2017 Bourgogne le Chapitre

2017 Marsannay Clos du Roy

2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Boudots 1er Cru

2017 Chambolle-Musigny Drazey

2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes 1er Cru

2017 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru

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