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Louis Jadot (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot)

As I have done for several years, I conducted an unexpurgated tasting of Jadot, broaching comprehensive whites and reds over two-morning sessions with head winemaker Frédéric Barnier.

“The 2022 vintage was one of the warmest in Burgundy. On average, it was warmer than 1947 or 2003, so it’s in the top two or three ever. It was also one of the driest, below the average quantity of rainfall every month except one, which is key to explaining the season. That was due to three or four days of rain at the end of June. It was fundamental because, without it, the vines would have been completely stressed and blocked, probably losing a large part of the fruit. Water was really the challenge. The vines adapted to the heat, especially since it came at the beginning of the season. Between early July to around August 20, there was no rain. Zero. So, the capacity of the vines to withstand this lack of water derives from the rain in June: 80mm in the Côte de Beaune and a maximum of 150mm in the north of the Côte de Nuits. Also, it fell as two or three storms instead of one, which is important because water could penetrate the subsoil.”

“The second key moment is the change of weather at the end of August. We were worried for the young vines in terms of lack of water and saw some yellowing of leaves, and the berries became a little shriveled, which are bad signs because it means the vines are trying to survive instead of focusing [their energy] on the fruit. The forecast was for some rain, so it was a kind of bet. If there had been no water, then it would have been a problem, but some rain would restart the vines. We had around 10-20mm, which is not a lot, so it did not alter the volume but changed the ambiance, and we saw the beginning of warm days and fresh nights, which helped the vines to regain the classic ripening cycle. We could see the ripeness arriving and it moderated the level of alcohol, between 13.0% to 13.5%. The sanitary conditions were fine because of the dry conditions with just a bit of oïdium. We started the harvest for the whites at the end of August. The 2022 vintage has one of the lowest acidities, less than the previous two vintages, which is challenging for the whites, but the lower alcohol means you don’t feel it. So, I prefer it to the 2019 whites. We did not acidify, though we stopped the malolactic fermentation earlier than other vintages. In 2022, we kept 1g/L of malic acid; in 2020, it was 0.5g/L of malic acid. With regard to the reds, we are experimenting with stem addition as full clusters. I do not want to shape the wine in terms of style, so the maximum I have used is 30%.”

From Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024) by Neal Martin

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