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Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon

Arguably the most prominent Meursault producer, it was big news when Dominique Lafon retired and handed the running to his daughter Léa and nephew Pierre Lafon, the former having taken maternity leave after giving birth to her two children. Of course, Dominique Lafon remains a presence at the winery. They taste together every other week, though in the past, on more than one occasion, Lafon has emphasized how they make the calls. Dominique did drop in during my visit, as I was sure and hoped he would, though it was Pierre Lafon who took me through the wines that included their Mâconnais range. “The 2022 is our last vintage with Caroline Gon [who is not devoted to her and her husband’s domaine, Frantz-Chagnolou]. There was a transition period between her and our new winemaker, Elsie Moore, who has now taken over.” As well as the Mâconnais wines, we tasted through their complete portfolio of reds and whites. “The reds were racked after the harvest at the end of September. They were picked from August 29 and finished on September 4. The alcohol levels are around 13.5%, with a pH around 3.50. We have a new de-stemmer, so we have some whole bunches, around 50% for some cuvées. The whites will be bottled as early as January next year.”

Although Comtes Lafon is renowned for its Meursaults, readers should note that their reds can be outstanding. I was intrigued to taste their Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu, which includes stems (50%), for the first time, a move that enhances this cuvée. It’s not their new recipe, and readers should be advised that the 2023 contains nary a stem. But I feel that their Volnays would benefit from their addition. Beady-eyed readers will also spot a couple of maiden vintages from new fermage agreements: a Puligny Village and Puligny Les Charmes, the latter very promising. Amongst the Meursaults, I usually find that the Les Perrières rules the roost, but in 2022, its position is usurped by a fabulous Les Charmes, a Premier Cru that seemed to revel in the growing season, closely followed by a superb Genevrières. Predictably, the Montrachet is stunning, aged half in new oak in its first year, then used oak for the remaining nine months. It is, as I write in my one-word summation, majestic.

From Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024) by Neal Martin

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2022 Mâcon-Prissé

Color: White

2022 Mâcon-Prissé

2022 Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine

2022 Mâcon-Uchizy Les Maranches

2022 Mâcon-Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette

2022 Mâcon-Bussières Le Monsard

2022 Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four

2022 Saint-Véran

2022 Viré-Clessé

2022 Pouilly-Fuissé

2022 Pouilly-Fuissé En Chatenay

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