Les Carmes Haut-Brion
When I popped into Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Winemaker Guillaume Pouthier was in garrulous form. “There are two keys of the vintage—first, water during the winter and the importance of managing the hydric stress. You need to have less water; otherwise, you will have a lot of vegetative growth. In 2023, you had to manage the water to increase evapotranspiration, managing the level and shape of the leaves. There was more water but less sun in July. Second, it is the selection when fruit goes in the winery to remove the dry part of the berries that suffered échaudage [scorching or burning of the fruit] during the heat wave in September when three days were above 40°C. This was 10%-15% for the crop for every producer [although this was refuted by the following three that I asked in Pessac-Léognan.] This can create rough tannins if the pips are unripe, so we used a densiometric machine and optical sorting to eliminate these shriveled berries. In my opinion, the Merlot on gravel was hard to manage in 2023. The texture of the tannins in 2023 is different due to longer ripeness that elongates proteins to give you a creamy sensation. I love this vintage because it gives customers a choice when they want to open a bottle.”
From The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023 (Apr 2024) by Neal Martin
2023 Le C des Carmes Haut-Brion
Color: Red
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2023 Les Carmes Haut-Brion
Color: Red
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