Readers who enjoyed my recent article on Gruaud Larose will be aware that this is a Saint-Julien that has turned the corner in recent years. With Virginie Sallette in charge of winemaking, the future is brighter than ever. “During the summer, we had frequent showers, so it wasn’t easy because of the mildew, but we didn't lose much, 2% of the Merlot only,” she told me. “There was a heat wave at the end of August, so we had to begin the picking earlier than envisaged with the old Merlot vines on September 11. We had to wait for the Cabernet Sauvignon, so that is why we picked over three weeks, a long period to wait for the maturity. The old Cabernet vines were harvested from September 24, and we made three passes through the vines, the second time to take out the dried berries. There were a lot due to the hot weather, and it depended on the maturity of the vine. It was a regular vinification working each plot in separate tanks. It was tricker with the Merlot due to the quality of the tannins but easier with the Cabernet Sauvignon.”
From The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023 (Apr 2024) by Neal Martin
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