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Domaine Tollot-Beaut

Nathalie Tollot welcomed me to her Chorey-lès-Beaune winery, one I have been visiting for two decades now. “We had hail twice in the same week on June 22 and 25, so we have lower yields in Chorey-lès-Beaune, losing around one-quarter of the crop. The rest of the growing season was fine, picking from August 25 and finishing around ten days later. There was a little rain before picking, around 24mm on August 18, which helped the vines. The vinification was normal, being careful about temperatures during fermentation, while everything was de-stemmed as usual using a Pellenc [de-stemming machine] that does not crush the berries. We’ll start bottling next January for one month.”

Burgundy mavens in some quarters rather look down their noses at Tollot-Beaut. Maybe it is because they heed neither fad nor fashion, sticking to 100% de-stemming and fashioning what some deem a more ‘commercial’ style of Pinot Noir. The mavens overlook that these are delicious wines that, I can vouch from much personal experience, mature with grace. This was one of the best ranges I have tasted from Tollot-Beaut; their 2022s are imbued with perhaps just a tad more finesse and terroir expression than recent vintages. “Normally, I don’t like the hotter vintages,” Tollot says, “but I really like the 2022s.” Readers should check out the Beaune Grèves or Corton-Bressandes and feel free to age them as they see fit.

From Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024) by Neal Martin

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2022 Bourgogne Rouge

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