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Domaine Tollot-Beaut

Domaine Tollot-Beaut is perhaps the best-known grower in Chorey-lès-Beaune. They were one of the first to commence domaine-bottling in the 1930s and enjoy considerable success overseas. Perhaps this is down to their more fruit-forward and “juicy” style of wine, a style that tends to put off some Burgundy purists seeking more austere and mineral-driven wines. Personally, I have always thoroughly enjoyed Tollot-Beaut’s wines. Not everything has to be intellectual and challenging, not to mention that the wines tend to evolve more terroir attributes with bottle age - if you can resist temptation, because often they are just delicious in their youth. As usual, I met with Nathalie Tollot, who took me through the 2017s, which were nearly all in barrel. Affected by frost and hail in recent vintages, this year their cellar has to accommodate an additional row of barrels parked between the regular rows. “We had 22mm of rain just before harvest. It was what the vines needed,” she explained, standing on tiptoe so that her pipette could dip inside the bunghole. “We started the harvest on September 5. The yields were quite similar to those in 2009.” As customary, the wines perhaps see a little more new oak than other domaines, usually 50% for the Premier Crus and 100% for the Grand Crus, engendering a slightly modern style. Yet I find impressive balance and plenty of freshness at all levels here, the Aloxe-Corton Les Vercots evincing the pedigree of one of the appellation’s finest Premier Crus. while the Chorey-lès-Beaune Village is a delicious 2017 that will doubtless represent great value for money.

From 2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019) by Neal Martin

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2017 Aloxe-Corton Les Fournières 1er Cru

Color: Red

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