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Domaine Pierre Morey

“It wasn’t a vintage where you could relax in terms of the viticulture,” Anne Morey tells me in our rescheduled visit. Mea culpa – I had misread the time of our first rendezvous. After that, Morey had waited anxiously for my return, watching me circle Meursault via Instagram and studiously noting the music recommendations. However, there was no way I would miss visiting this address, and I squeezed in a visit towards the end of the trip. I was interested in how she used aloe vera on the vines’ tendrils. “It’s like a jelly, which is not so much a protection but helps with the hydration of the vines,” Morey tells me. “Two parcels suffered blockage: one in Bâtard-Montrachet that started losing its leaves, which I picked at the end of the harvest. Another was in Meursault, which inexplicably drains very easily, even though it doesn’t have a great deal of sand. I started picking around August 25 until September 3. All the red cuvées are de-stemmed as usual. Any racking is done according to the lunar calendar, the wines to be bottled between January and March. The word that I use the most for 2022 is ‘suppleness.’ You have the impression of the wines breathing. The wines are very balanced, but there is power. Alcohol is between 13.0% and 13.5% for the reds, slightly lower for the whites.” I really enjoyed Morey’s 2022s, which are more consistent than her 2021s. Only the Volnay from purchased fruit (therefore under the “Morey Blanc” label) seemed out of sorts. Still, elsewhere, I appreciate the purity, harmony, the reds’ untrammeled Pinoté and the whites’ texture, not least at the affordable entry-level end.

From Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024) by Neal Martin

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2022 Bourgogne Aligoté

Color: White

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