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Domaine Pierre Morey

“This was the first time in ages that we had a normal harvest,” commented a patently relieved Anne Morey over the din of pneumatic drills. The winery was being equipped with a new lift, so that shifting barrels up and down will be less exhausting for the workers and less disturbing for the wines. Unfortunately, every time we engaged in conversation, the drilling began again. “It was also a good harvest for the reds, and I’m surprised by the volume,” she continued at a shout. “For the whites, the dryness reduced the levels of juice in the pulp, so it was not as generous. By the way, that is the opposite of 2018, when there is lots of juice. But the 2017s have good acidity and were very healthy. The reds were a bit trickier as we had to decide whether to bleed the tanks or not, since they did not have the concentration. But again, they have a good level of acidity and they are aromatically... regal!”

I am a big fan of this domaine’s wines and it is pleasing to see how Pierre Morey himself is now regarded as a legendary white winemaker, as attested by my regaling of his 1991 Meursault Les Perrières in Cellar Favorite. Anne Morey is an excellent winemaker, always chatty and animated in conversation down in her small barrel cellar. The 2017s consist mostly of domaine wines. The négociant side, labeled under Morey Blanc, was decimated by frost and hail in recent years. The reds were picked from September 2 and racked two or three weeks prior to my visit. They are pretty and very pure. I always have a soft spot for Morey’s Monthélie 1er Cru, which comes from Les Clous, though the vineyard is not written on the label. Of course, the main show is the whites, crowned by a profound Meursault Les Perrières and an excellent Village Cru in the shape of the Meursault Les Terres Blanches from vines just below La Goutte d’Or. There is a sense of honesty about Morey’s wines that I always admire. They sing true to where they come from. Quantities are small but they are well worth hunting down.

From 2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019) by Neal Martin

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2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Color: White

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