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Domaine Pierre Labet

With a few minutes to spare, proprietor Edouard Labet, who has taken over from his father François, guided me through the micro-cuvées that form their Clos de Vougeot cuvées, an insightful exercise demonstrating the differences that soil type and vine age make. As the largest landowner within its hallowed walls, some 5.5 hectares, they are gifted the opportunity to mix and match terroirs. They have even produced a pure white cuvée from Pinot Beurot vines – useful for that white Clos Vougeot-themed dinner and oddly quite delicious! Labet told me that he builds a “lasagne” of stems (I love that term – winemakers usually refer to it as a “millefeuille,” but lasagne sounds more appetizing) and de-stemmed fruit so that the cap is not too dry. However, Labet tells me they have recently reduced the whole bunches.

Regarding the 2022 vintage, he said that the 90mm of rain in 20 minutes at the end of June helped the vintage manifest fruit that doesn’t feel hot. I appreciate the direction Labet’s wines have taken in recent years - less oak-influenced and nuanced. The Domaine Pierre Labet wine is also a useful addition to their Clos Vougeot cuvées, particularly their Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes.

From Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024) by Neal Martin

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2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes

Color: Red

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