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Domaine Patrice & Michèle Rion

Located in the shadow of the church in the village of Prémeaux-Prissey, this domaine is currently producing some of the best wines in the appellation. They are relatively unheralded given the quality of their wines over the last few years, but certainly here in the UK they have gained a loyal following. The domaine, named after Patrice Rion and his wife, was established in 1990 when Patrice was winemaker at domaine Daniel Rion. When he left in 2000, the portfolio was expanded through acquisitions and fermage agreements, although a couple of those recently came to an end. They still farm around 5.5 hectares of vine, including two top-grade monopoles in Nuits Saint-Georges: Clos St. Marc and Clos Argillières. Patrice made a brief appearance, but it was his son Maxime who escorted me through their 2017s. “The growing season saw just a small threat of frost in April, but fortunately this year the conditions were dry. There was no stress and no maladies. The flowering was quick and even. We picked from September 6 until September 14 and cropped at around 40hl/ha. The malolactic was quite early and quick. This is the third vintage where we have not added sulphur during fermentation, only just after the malolactic. We have bottled three of the crus, whilst the Village Crus have just been racked and will probably be bottled in December. The Villages Crus are raised in 25% new oak and the Premier Crus around 40% [slightly lower than previous years, by my estimation]. I think some areas will produce long-lasting wine, depending on the grower and terroir.”

Rion’s 2017s have much to offer, not least their Bourgogne Bon Baton, bottled under screwcap, which represents outstanding value. As always, I admire the two monopoles that both see around 25% to 30% whole bunches addition and I could not recommend one over the other. Perhaps the Clos des Argillières is imbued with more longevity? Also, their Chambolle-Musigny Charmes, a dead ringer for Ghislaine-Barthod’s, shows huge potential. If you are not familiar with this domaine, they are well worth seeking out.

From 2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019) by Neal Martin

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2017 Bourgogne Pinot Noir

Color: Red

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