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Domaine Michel Lafarge

As was the case at Domaine d'Angerville, my November visit here was bittersweet, as the Lafarges have virtually no wine to sell. The 2012 crop was the smallest ever recorded here, down 80% from a normal year, according to Michel Lafarge. Many wines were declassified due to insufficient quantities to vinify (the Pommard Pezerolles actually went into the Bourgogne Rouge). "We had hailstorms both from the north and from the south, so both sides of the plants were hit," said Frederic Lafarge. The Lafarges started harvesting on September 20 with their Volnay Mitans and Chateau des Ducs, but the Clos des Chenes wasn't ready to be picked yet. The tiny crop has "great potential and outstanding saline purity of terroir," Michel noted. "Tasting the wines today, we never could imagine the stress and violence of the growing season." Virtually the entire 2012 crop was aging in the family cellar's tiny inner sanctum. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., www.martinscottwines.com and Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com)

From 2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014) by Stephen Tanzer

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2012 Volnay Clos du Chateau Des Ducs

Color: Red

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