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Domaine J-F Mugnier

You gotta love Frédéric Mugnier. As I have written before, what comes across as an almost ambivalent attitude to his métier, as if to say, ‘Did I give up a career in engineering to make Musigny?’ inevitably turns into a discussion about winemaking and the comings and goings of Burgundy. Mugnier is never shy of airing his opinion (either face-to-face or in print). To quote another winemaker from earlier that day, Mugnier is forever the contrarian. I think he wouldn’t want it any other way.

“It was an especially challenging growing season,” he tells me. “In early August, I was anxious as it was too hot, and the vines were not looking good, some berries already shriveling. Some already tasted a bit oxidized. But I like to be pessimistic. Fortunately, there was enough rain just before the harvest to revive the grapes. The harvest began September 1 and took place over seven days. There was not much triage, and the vinification was normal. The wines were raised in around 15% new oak for all the cuvées and no stems.”

The wines are a mixed bag. I felt that in juxtaposition with Mugnier’s other cuvées, the Chambolle Les Fuées exhibited a little sur-maturité. It’s normally a wine I like, more so than even his Bonnes-Mares, so I’ll revisit it once in bottle. The highlights predictably include the Les Amoureuses and Musigny Vieilles Vignes, the latter more taciturn aromatically but convincing in the mouth. Readers should note that Mugnier continues his policy of not releasing this wine until it has some bottle maturity. I tasted the current release, the 2016, which I published as a Cellar Favorite.

From Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024) by Neal Martin

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2022 Chambolle-Musigny Village

Color: Red

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