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Domaine Henri Gouges

It took me a few minutes to locate Antoine Gouges in the maze of outbuildings in Nuits Saint-Georges. It’s one of those places that looks deceptively small from the front entrance into the original family maison. Behind lies a tasting room for visitors, the winery, various outbuildings and warehouses. Once found, a little flustered since he thought our rendezvous was 30 minutes later, we settled down to taste through their 2022s. “The flowering was good,” Gouges explains. “It was hot and dry, but we suffered hail twice with a lot of rain in late June when we lost 30% of the crop. The vineyard of Fontaine Jacquinot was wiped out. [Interestingly, an hour before, Denis Chevillon had told me that he had only lost around 10% of the crop in those areas, though hail can be so localized that it can mean a difference between one row and the next.] The rain helped with the maturity of the grapes. Picking was from August 30, with the whites and the reds beginning on September 1 and 2, cropped at 27hL/ha [a figure noticeably smaller than others]. Everything was de-stemmed. We had an early malo, probably because we use low SO2 during vinification, and the cellars are not that cold at this time of the year.” This was a good set of wines from Gouges, capped by two wondrous Nuits Saint-Georges from Les Vaucrains and Les Saint-Georges. The entry-level regional and village crus were mostly bottled after the 2023 harvest. Occasionally, I wonder whether that additional winter in barrel might give them a little more stuffing? Otherwise, those who appreciate the Gouges style of winemaking, which I feel has been fine-tuned in the last five or six years, will find much to like in 2022.

From Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024) by Neal Martin

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2022 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Les Dames Huguettes

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