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Domaine Ghislaine-Barthod

Purveyor of Chambolle-Musignys par excellence, Ghislaine Barthod has gained a loyal following for her wines, which are dominated by an unequalled range of the appellation’s Premier Crus. There are 11 this year, two more than usual since they opted to parse out the Les Noirots and Les Sentiers, hitherto blended into the Chambolle-Musigny Village. Usually, Barthod herself takes me through the barrel samples, but this year her son, Clément Barthod-Boillot, must have pulled the short straw. He explained that they picked from September 1 to 9 (interestingly, the day that neighbor Hudelot-Baillet started), and everything was de-stemmed as usual. Having been decimated by last year’s frost, yields are around 40hl/ha in 2017, the barrel cellar full once again. I have adored Ghislaine Barthod’s wines since long before I began writing. They are pure, uncomplicated yet beguiling expressions of the various climats around Chambolle-Musigny. This domaine would enjoy a higher profile if they owned a couple of Grand Crus, but oddly, I quite like the fact that they create such exquisite wines with their Premier Crus, and a Grand Cru might be superfluous. It is difficult to pick any cuvée out because they are so consistent, but the Les Fuées is stunning and I could have eloped with the Charmes there and then. It’s a pity that quantities are small – these wines are snapped up as soon as they are released, yet release prices are often reasonable.

Readers should note that I also tasted the complete range from her husband, Louis Boillot, whose cellar adjoins Ghislaine’s.

From 2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019) by Neal Martin

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2017 Bourgogne Rouge

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