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Domaine de l'Arlot

In a rare break in the inclement weather, I called on winemaker Géraldine Godot at Domaine de l’Arlot, located right on the RN74 in Prémeaux-Pressey. “I completely agree with what you say,” Godot tells me in response to my opening question. “We expected a vintage that was similar to 2020 as the year was hot. We had heat waves in the summer, and often, the vineyard team had to start working at five in the morning. The flowering suggested an August harvest, earlier than in 2020. When we started the analysis of the vines in August, we were surprised that the juice for the white was almost green with high acidity and low sugar levels. The leaves were not brown or falling, so we presumed the growth cycle was continuing, but it had actually stopped as the vines were protecting themselves. When the temperature began to decrease and normalized, the cycle restarted. Thanks to the yield, averaging 38hL/ha, higher compared to 2020, served to distribute concentration over a higher volume. Therefore, we can have a classic Burgundy style with natural acidity, the only tartaric acid added to the Clos du Chapeau. The wines have more structure and body than 2021, yet the styles are similar. We began the picking on August 26 with both the whites and reds, in the morning and afterward respectively. Most of the picking by the students finished on August 31; the Hautes-Côtes was picked on September 10. The fruit was ripe and did not necessitate much sorting. Everything was de-stemmed in this vintage. The fermentation was normal with a short cold pre-fermentation, and the cuvaison was around 20 days with remontage for maceration, around the same as the previous vintage [pigeage ceased since 2021]. The alcohol levels are between 13.0% and 13.5%, slightly lower for the Hautes-Côtes. Apart from the entry-level wines, they’ll be bottled most from around March.” This was a strong set of wines from the Domaine. The Romanée-Saint-Vivant is predictably the cream of the crop. For me, the Clos des Fôret Saint Georges represents an accomplished expression of that vineyard, not to mention Mont des Oiseaux. Part of me wonders whether a judicious addition of stems might have imported more complexity. However, given that Godot had discovered some hydric stress in the vines, she felt it risked stems not being fully lignified.

From Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024) by Neal Martin

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2022 Bourgogne Blanc Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Le Mont

Color: White

2022 Bourgogne Blanc Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Le Mont

2022 Bourgogne Rouge Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Le Mont

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2022 Côte de Nuits Village Clos du Chapeau

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2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de l'Arlot 1er Cru

2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Blanc Clos de l'Arlot 1er Cru

2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Forêts Saint Georges 1er Cru

2022 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru

2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru

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