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Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot

Coquard Loison Fleurot was my serendipitous discovery in 2016. Whilst I occasionally tasted the wines, it was not until I visited the domaine in Gilly last year and met with Thomas Colladot that I was completely wowed. It’s increasingly difficult to find a new discovery in Burgundy, let alone one boasting several Grand Crus in comparatively large quantities. Some readers might well remember past vintages from Coquard Loison Fleurot that were ordinary at best, and contracts meant that fruit from their best holdings was sold to grateful négociants or appeared on supermarket shelves. However, this is another classic example of the new generation rewriting the script (c.f. Drouhin-Laroze, Claude Dugat, Amélie Berthaut, etc.) and with assistance from commercial director Claire Fleurot, this has rapidly become a welcome addition to the roster of top producers. Having helped thrust them into the limelight 12 months ago, I was pleased to find that their 2015s poured blind at “Burgfest” also show great promise, so I was eager to see how they would follow up their 2016s.

“We did some green harvesting for the younger vines,” Colladot explained in the capacious underground barrel cellar that sits directly below the vat room. “That meant the yield is around 45hl/ha. We picked from September 9 to around September 13. We then did a 25-day cuvaison with five or six pigeages and remontage.”

The 2017s form a strong follow-up to the outstanding 2016s. Perhaps the only cuvée that misfires is the perplexing Clos de Vougeot. Maybe it just fluffed its lines on the day? Otherwise, this is a consistently impressive set of wines that attest to clever winemaking matched with excellent terroirs. Colladot shows deft use of whole bunches, knows when to select new oak or used, add stems or not (details for each cuvée are presented in the tasting notes.) He allows the vineyards to articulate their own personalities so that each one offers its own take on the vintage. If you have not discovered Coquard Loison Fleurot, practice saying that name on a daily basis, or use the acronym “CLF.” It never does “DRC” any harm. Make sure you bag some of the 2017s when they hit the market.

From 2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019) by Neal Martin

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2017 Bourgogne Rouge

Color: Red

2017 Bourgogne Rouge

2017 Chambolle-Musigny Village

2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

2017 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru

2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Village

2017 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru

2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Village

2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

2017 Vosne-Romanée Village

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