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Bibi Graetz

Bibi Graetz is a small, artisan producer based in Fiesole, just outside of Florence. Originally trained as an artist, Graetz has brought his creativity and flair for experimentation to the world of wine. Graetz prefers to work with indigenous grapes and many of the estate's wines prominently feature varietals such as Colorino and Canaiolo that today are typically used as minor parts of Sangiovese-based blends but which Graetz believes hold unrealized potential. According to Graetz in pre-phylloxera times it was Canaiolo rather than Sangiovese that was the principal varietal used in Chianti. Graetz is equally fanatical about yields. He keeps only one bunch of fruit (which weighs as little as 500 grams) per plant although in plots that have a full southern exposure yields can go up to a still-small 800 grams per vine in order to avoid extreme concentration of the fruit. The wines are fermented in a combination of open-top barriques and stainless steel tanks. The micro-vinifications in barrique yield wines that have a lightness Graetz is quite fond of, while the wines vinified in stainless steel have more color as well as structure. The malolactic fermentations occur naturally and for some varietals, especially the Sangiovese, they can last until the following spring or summer. In addition to his top estate wines, Graetz also produces a set of more accessibly-priced négociant bottlings which are blends from finished wines produced by larger cooperatives according to Graetz's specifications. In a region abundant with an ocean of average wines, those that emerge from Bibi Graetz's tiny estate are nothing short of extraordinary. This is a superb set of releases and I can't recommend the wines highly enough.

From Central Tuscany 2003 and 2004: A Tale of Two Vintages  (June 2007) by Antonio Galloni

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2004 SOFFOCONE DI VINCIGLIATA

Release Price: $30

Color: Red

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