Spirits: The Tip
of the Iceberg

BY ANTONIO GALLONI |&nbsp;DECEMBER 08, 2022It all started innocently enough. Over the last few years, I
have seen a marked increase in spirits made by winemakers. I thought it would
be fun to taste them and write them all up. That was the genesis for this
report. But then more and more samples arrived, and before I knew it, the
article had morphed into a broad survey of spirits of all kinds. This article
is clearly not comprehensive to any one category, but rather intended as a
collection of spirits I think Vinous readers will enjoy.

As I started tasting through these spirits, I wondered if my
approach to tasting wine and Champagne would be applicable, or if instead, I
needed an entirely new methodology for looking at quality. I asked myself if
there are really marked differences between several raspberry eaux de vie, for
example. It turns out spirits can absolutely be assessed for aromatics, fruit,
texture, finish and a number of criteria used in evaluating wine. If anything,
the alcohol in most categories acts as an amplifier of those qualities and also
accentuates both strengths and flaws. And yes, raspberry eaux de vie can be very
different.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1670512018016-Spirits+2022_Cover.jpg">Where possible I have indicated lot numbers, although these
aren’t always available in the world of spirits. I would like to see that
change so consumers can know they are buying the same product I tasted and
reviewed. In this regard, parts of the spirits world share some basic
principles with other beverages such as NV Champagne, but also soft drinks and
beer, where the goal is to create a ‘consistent’ product from year to year.
There are virtues in that, and it is a skill, but I believe small batch
bottlings that are differentiated are far more interesting, certainly far more
interesting for the inquisitive reader looking for something that is truly
distinctive. For now, I have relaxed the rule I have for NV Champagne where I
only review bottlings that have a base vintage or disgorgement date listed. But that does make me wonder what the future is for craft
spirits. About a decade ago, I sat in the Krug tasting room with then-CEO
Margareth Henriquez and Olivier Krug and explained that I would not review
their Grande Cuvée because there was no way to ensure the batch I tasted was
the same wine in the market. I suggested adding a base vintage or disgorgement
date, which would differentiate releases, make each release special, and then,
in time create opportunities for thematic tastings and/or special packaging,
like mixed cases. “Our customers have no interest in this information,” was the
reply.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1670512050070-AG+Spirits+2022.jpg">Readers might find this hard to believe, but at the time, the
Grand Cuvée struggled mightily in the market. It did not sell. And this was not
that long ago. For a time, the half bottles were dumped in elite New York City
restaurants (likely elsewhere too), where they were sold for next to nothing.
Then, Krug began experimenting with thematic names for each release, before
settling on the Edition system. A stroke of genius. Guess what happened? For
the first time ever, Grande Cuvée became an allocated wine. All sorts of
comparative tastings emerged, as did boxed sets that offer a combination of
releases. 

To be sure, spirits are different. Many are made in tiny
quantities and on a far smaller scale than wine or Champagne. Unlike wine,
bottles are opened and often enjoyed over a period of time, so comparative
tastings are less the norm. Even so, I would like to see better and more
consumer-friendly labeling. There is a possible parallel with the world of
grower Champagne, where an increasing number of producers detail varietal
breakdown and the exact source of their fruit. Why would that not be applicable
to a fine source of pears or raspberries for eau de vie, or a specific
breakdown of lots in a Cognac? All information like that does is create greater
consumer interest.

I tasted the spirits in this report in November and December
2022.© 2022, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.<div><hr> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/piedmont-within-reach-dec-2022">Piedmont Within Reach</a>, Antonio Galloni, December 2022 <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/focus-on-barbaresco-a-close-look-at-2019-2020-oct-2022">Focus on Barbaresco – A Close Look at 2019 &amp; 2020</a>, Antonio Galloni, October 2022 <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/the-2018-barolos-part-2-oct-2022">The 2018 Barolos, Part 2</a>, Antonio Galloni, October 2022 </div>

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