2007 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve Zieregg Reserve Iz

For many consumers this estate is the undisputed icon of Styria. While there may be some truth to that perception, even Tement has gone through phases over the years, not all of which were pristine. Manfred Tement was, like Franz Xaver Pichler in Wachau, a larger-than-life personality. The magnificent new winery at the top of the Zieregg vineyard, with its stunning view across the border into Slovenia, was his monument. Much of what he did--and he was the first in Styria to experiment with wild yeasts--was at the cutting edge of development. In vintages like 2000 and 2001, though, he pushed his luck with ripeness a bit too far. A sauvignon blanc with 14.5% alcohol and a load of new wood will not necessarily be described as elegant. When his son Armin came back in 2005, he tried, as he told me, "all sorts of things to find his own path." Some worked better than others. Only in 2007, though, did he hit full stride, scaling back the extremes, focusing his energies and reverting to larger oak casks for much of the wine. That vintage, along with 2011 and 2012, is certainly one of the best of the new era. Nineteen ninety remains the benchmark for his father. With 83 hectares here and another 20 at their Ciringa property on the Fosilni Berg in Slovenia, they retain an aura that few can attain, much less surpass. (www.tement.at) Also recommended: 2012 Gelber Muskateller Klassik (87), 2012 Weissburgunder Klassik (87) and 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (87). Other wines tasted: 2012 Temento.