2013 Riesling Heiligenstein
$37 (2016)
Austria
Zöbing
Kamptal
White
Riesling (2022 vintage)
00
2013
2016 - 2023
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Raised on the neighboring Allram estate, Birgit Eichinger founded her own winery in 1992. Since then, she has not only built the current cellar but also expanded her vineyard holdings to their current 16 hectares, including 6 in Gaisberg, the flagship of the estate. Although her focus is clearly on Grüner Veltliner, I find that her Rieslings often show better in a style that some have called baroque. She describes it instead as “power and elegance.”
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2022
2025 - 2045
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Birgit Eichinger, née Allram, grew up at the local Allram wine estate and was primed from childhood to take over. However, when her older sister married a winemaker, plans changed. Eichinger received 3.5 hectares of vineyard and a piece of land, on which she built her own winery and her business over the years. She made her first wines in 1992, still pressing the fruit at her parental estate. Her own cellar with the press was first used in 1995. Being a new estate, she found it easier to establish herself internationally than at home. Today, she farms 16 hectares of vines and exports 55% of her production. In the meantime, her daughter, Gloria Eichinger, has joined the estate, working alongside Birgit since 2016 after completing wine studies in Krems and training in Marlborough, New Zealand and the Pfalz in Germany. Plantings are split into 70% Grüner Veltliner and 20% Riesling, with Roter Veltliner (despite its name, not a direct relative of Grüner Veltliner) and Chardonnay taking up 5% each. The wines are crushed and whole-bunch-pressed and, depending on the vintage, see varying amounts of skin contact in the press. While Grüner is matured in oak, Riesling is only ever made in stainless steel. About 2022, Eichinger notes that there was some rain during harvest, necessitating several harvest passes and resulting in “very approachable” wines. During my visit, I tasted the 2022 wines, with some 2021s for comparison.
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2016
2018 - 2023
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Tasting the bottlings from Birgit Eichinger’s three top sites left me with the realization that I ought to have found time to taste her entire 2016 collection. The ever-affable and seemingly unflappable Eichinger – increasingly assisted by daughter Gloria – is clearly on a qualitative roll. (A brief introduction to this estate precedes my notes on its 2013s.)
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2015
2017 - 2022
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Birgit Eichinger picked until the end of October in 2015, and late harvest seemed especially evident in several wines that had not yet been bottled when I last tasted with her in June 2016. A significant share of the Riesling fruit from her Heiligenstein and Gaisberg was, as usual, picked out several weeks ahead of that destined for site-specific bottling. (A brief introduction to this estate precedes my notes on its 2013s.)
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2014
2016 - 2018
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Among this talented grower’s 2014s, I had chance to taste only a trio of her top bottlings, from vineyards classified by the Traditionsweingüter Österreich as "Erste Lagen.” Those wines testify to this vintage’s challenges, and while I hope they will yet gain greater clarity, I am doubtful.
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2013
2016 - 2023
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Raised on the neighboring Allram estate, Birgit Eichinger founded her own winery in 1992. Since then, she has not only built the current cellar but also expanded her vineyard holdings to their current 16 hectares, including 6 in Gaisberg, the flagship of the estate. Although her focus is clearly on Grüner Veltliner, I find that her Rieslings often show better in a style that some have called baroque. She describes it instead as “power and elegance.”
00
2012
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Birgit Eichinger was raised in the neighboring Allram estate, which her sister now manages. Determined to pursue a winemaking career, she founded her own winery in 1992 and began building the current cellar three years later. Since then, she has expanded her vineyard holdings to their current 16 hectares, including six in Geisberg, the flagship of the estate. With a clear focus on grüner veltliner, she understandably likes 2012 a bit more than 2011. While she seldom shares the limelight with her better-known colleagues, hers is a style that I enjoy. She describes it as "power and elegance." (www.weingut-eichinger.at) Also recommended: 2012 Gruner Veltliner Hasel (86), 2012 Gruner Veltliner Wechselberg (87), 2012 Riesling vom Berg (87).
00
2011
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
Birgit Eichinger was raised in the neighboring Allram estate, which her sister now manages. Determined to pursue a winemaking career, she founded her own winery in 1992 and began building the current cellar three years later. Since then, she has expanded her vineyard holdings to their current 16 hectares, including six in Geisberg, the flagship of the estate. With a clear focus on grüner veltliner, she understandably likes 2012 a bit more than 2011. While she seldom shares the limelight with her better-known colleagues, hers is a style that I enjoy. She describes it as "power and elegance." (www.weingut-eichinger.at) Also recommended: 2012 Gruner Veltliner Hasel (86), 2012 Gruner Veltliner Wechselberg (87), 2012 Riesling vom Berg (87).
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