2007 Riesling Oberemmeler Hütte Auslese A.P. #5

Max von Kunow reported very little damage from the April 2017 frost, other than in a few of his lower-elevation or especially warm sites (Kanzemer Hörecker being an example of the latter). Remarkably, he didn’t begin picking until October 5, though he was then finished in barely over two weeks, mustering a crew of 15 and, he said, not taking a break even on Sundays. Adequate precautions in the vineyards, he insisted, served to ward off significant early rot. “And not spraying with herbicides,” he added, “means you have plants between the rows to take up water from the soil.” When botrytis did get going during the third week of October, “that was precisely when we wanted it,” resulting in an unusually large volume of Auslese. I continue to appreciate young von Kunow’s determination to pick Kabinett at relatively low must weights and not allow that genre to be swamped by sweetness, as well as his determination to render buoyant and infectiously drinkable Grosse Gewächse. And I hope that the absence from his 2017 collection of feinherb bottlings from the Hütte does not signal a permanent change in his lineup or intentions, although as my coverage of the von Hövel 2016s pointedly noted, stylistically von Kunow is swimming against the prevailing VDP current. (For background on this estate, including its recent expansion and viticultural as well as stylistic evolution under Max von Kunow, consult the introductions to my coverage of its 2014s, 2015s and especially 2016s.)

Max von Kunow reported very little damage from the April 2017 frost, other than in a few of his lower-elevation or especially warm sites (Kanzemer Hörecker being an example of the latter). Remarkably, he didn’t begin picking until October 5, though he was then finished in barely over two weeks, mustering a crew of 15 and, he said, not taking a break even on Sundays. Adequate precautions in the vineyards, he insisted, served to ward off significant early rot. “And not spraying with herbicides,” he added, “means you have plants between the rows to take up water from the soil.” When botrytis did get going during the third week of October, “that was precisely when we wanted it,” resulting in an unusually large volume of Auslese. I continue to appreciate young von Kunow’s determination to pick Kabinett at relatively low must weights and not allow that genre to be swamped by sweetness, as well as his determination to render buoyant and infectiously drinkable Grosse Gewächse. And I hope that the absence from his 2017 collection of feinherb bottlings from the Hütte does not signal a permanent change in his lineup or intentions, although as my coverage of the von Hövel 2016s pointedly noted, stylistically von Kunow is swimming against the prevailing VDP current. (For background on this estate, including its recent expansion and viticultural as well as stylistic evolution under Max von Kunow, consult the introductions to my coverage of its 2014s, 2015s and especially 2016s.)

Since he took the reins at his family's estate in Oberemmel in 2010, Maximilian von Kunow has enjoyed three very good vintages to launch his career. He's always adept at bottling invigorating kabinetts and spätleses, but it was the quality of the dry and off-dry rieslings that surprised me this year. (www.weingut-vonhoevel.de)Also recommended: 2012 Riesling Spatlese Trocken R (86), 2012 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Grosses Gewachs (88), 2012 Kanzemer Horecker Riesling GL (88), 2012 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Auslese #26 (91).

Although 2005 remains the benchmark here, this estate's 2007s have a great deal going for them. After losing a game of poker with Mother Nature in 2006, waiting paid off for Eberhard von Kunow this year. The whole collection shines with ripe, healthy fruit; a firm, salty acidity; and impeccable balance. Von Kunow's son Max compares them to the 2001s, but they are purer and will probably turn out finer over time. My scores may not appear high, but these are eminently drinkable wines that I would enjoy having in my cellar. (Rudi Wiest/Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA) Also recommended: 2007 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2007 Riesling Feinherb Balduin von Hovel (86), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett (89), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese (90), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese (90), 2007 Kanzemer Horecker Riesling Auslese (91), 2007 Kanzemer Horecker Riesling Auslese i (92), 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese i (92), 2007 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Auslese ii (93).

After turning in a surprising performance in the more difficult 2004 vintage, Eberhard von Kunow has again produced an excellent selection of wines. Although even the dry rieslings are good, it is his delicate kabinetts and spatleses that steal the show in terms of drinkability this year:these crisp, light wines were certainly not the norm in this region in 2005. While the ausleses are deeper and richer, I nonetheless prefer his more succulent rieslings, which are still marked by a graceful acidity. (Rudi Wiest) Also recommended: 2005 Oberemmler Hutte Riesling Spatlese Trocken (88), 20 05 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese Feinherb (88), 2005 Riesling Spatlese Balduin von Hovel (87).

Following his son's advice, Eberhard von Kunow has begun to take more risks-especially in his use of wild yeast fermentations-and the results speak for themselves.This is one of the very few estates on the entire Mosel that made, particularly at the spatlese level, better 2004s than 2003s.Fans of the crisp Saar style, with bright fruit, exuberant character and nicely balanced residual sugar, should take a closer look at these wines.(Rudi Wiest/Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA) Also recommended: 2004 Oberemmler Hutte Riesling Kabinett (86), 2004 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett (86).

"In 1999," says a smiling Eberhard von Kunow, "I selected the least interesting Auslese and bottled that as Kabinett. The only vintage with which you could compare '99 is '59, another year with relatively low-acid wines that lived off their sheer stuffing." The average must weight in 1999 was the highest of the century for this estate. (Rudi Wiest)

"I find it tragic to taste and write about the top '98 Saar Eisweins at this stage," says von Kunow, who only let me taste "one of the little ones," which will be bottled as auslese. (Rudi Wiest)

Eberhard von Kunow has not had a vintage as successful as his 1997 in a number of years, and it was a joy to taste such a collection. (Rudi Wiest)