1998 Cuvée Création

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This wine was tasted over dinner at Eleven Madison Park in June, 2009.

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Proprietor Laurent Champs makes some of the region's most distinctive Champagnes. The Vilmart wines are characterized by an extreme sense of elegance, clarity and definition. The domaine's eleven hectares of vineyards are planted with 60% Chardonnay, 36% Pinot Noir and 4% Pinot Meunier, with vine ages ranging from 35 to 55 years, clearly towards the older side of the spectrum in the region. Champs prefers oak aging for his wines. The entry-level wines are aged in cask, while the top selections spend time in smaller French oak barrels. Readers should note that the entry-level NV is available on a very limited basis in the US, and I was not able to taste it for this article. Therefore, this range begins with the Grand Cellier, which represents a significantly higher level than the straight NV.

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