2002 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru
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Jean-Marie Guffens now ages his negociant Chablis in a new facility he shares with Olivier Leflaive, rather than having to truck the barrels down to his home base in the Maconnais. Guffens describes 2002 as his greatest year yet for Chablis. It's not the highest in acidity, like '96, or the richest, like '97," he told me, "but rather a combination of very low yields and perfectly healthy grapes. There was almost no rain during the four weeks leading up to the vintage, and thus no water to drive sugar levels higher. Sugars actually declined slightly in the dry weather, but the skins ripened perfectly and the grapes concentrated further. Ultimately there was very little juice in the grapes, and both yields and sugar levels were very uniform." (Fruit of the Vine, New York, NY; also a Peter Vezan Selection; importers include The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; Vintner Select, Mason, OH; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA) Also tasted: 2001 Chablis Terroirs de Chablis*.
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