Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Pierrières (2016 base)
$140 (0)
France
Congy
Champagne
Sparkling White
00
2020 - 2029
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00
2021 - 2030
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Olivier Collin’s new releases are off the charts. The Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée Les Maillons (2016 base) in particular is an insanely beautiful wine. This small domaine is located in Congy, a bit off the beaten track, but it is always one of my favorite destinations. All of the wines are vinified in oak, with some larger foudres used for aging the reserves. The Collin Champagnes are rich and vinous, with real textural depth and tons of character.
00
2018 - 2028
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This retrospective of Cappellano Barolos provided a great opportunity to revisit a number of vintages, including many of the benchmarks, going back to 1971. All of the wines were sourced directly from the estate, making this a tasting that will be very hard, if not impossible, to replicate.
00
2020 - 2035
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00
2020 - 2030
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Olivier Collin was in bright spirits when I stopped by to see him recently. Collin is among the growers who are very enthusiastic about the prospects for 2018. There is plenty to like in the bottled Champagnes as well. As has been the case for the last few vintages, some of these Champagnes contain a high percentage of reserve wines, which makes them less expressive of a single vintage, but probably more complete on their own. Meticulous farming, low yields and a hands-off approach in the cellar are some of the principles that inform these singular, distinctive Champagnes.
00
2020 - 2028
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Olivier Collin's 2018 disgorgements are outrageously beautiful and compelling. Readers should note that the Enfers and Les Roises are still 2013-vintage wines, but the current releases spent 48 months on the lees, as opposed to 36 for the 2017 disgorgements. As always, Collin's wines are built on a striking interplay of vinous intensity and minerality that is the result of meticulous vineyard work and minimal handling in the cellar.
00
2018 - 2028
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Tasting in the cellar with Olivier Collin is always a fascinating experience. The barn-like winery, with rows of barrels all on one level, is stripped down to the bare essentials. Perhaps the most significant evolution in these wines is the increasing use of reserve wines. In the begining, Collin's Champagnes were one vintage or predominantly one vintage, with just a little reserve wine. Starting in 2011, Collin bumped up the percentage of reserve wines in his blends as he acquired larger foudres for the cellar to handle the aging of the reserves. The 2013-based wines reviewed here have around 50% reserve wines, but more recent bottlings go as high as 80%. As always, the wines are made in a rich, vinous style with minimal intervention in both the vineyard and cellar. The 2013s are highly recommended. Lastly, Collin fans can look forward to a new wine from a tiny 0.3 hectare plot just outside the family home co-planted with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier that will be called Le Jardin d’Ulysse and that will debut with the 2017 vintage.
00
2017 - 2024
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These are five stellar wines from Olivier Collin. One of the recent developments here is a move towards aging the wines longer in the cellar. The Pierrières and Maillons will remain at 36 months on the lees, while the Roises and the new Les Enfers will move to 48 months on the lees. Collin is also planning several later releases for the Enfers. All of these Champagnes stand out for their striking purity of fruit, intensity and impeccable balance, qualities they show right out of the barrel as young component wines.
00
2015 - 2021
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A very different side of Champagne emerges as you make the 45 minute drive down from Epernay to Congy, a small village in the decidedly rural Sézanne district. Rows of older French oak barrels fill Olivier Collin's large, barn-like winery, while and old-fashioned freight elevator provides access to the lower level. A new tasting room was opened a few years ago, but otherwise, things are stripped down to the bare essentials here. That pretty much sums up the wines, too. Collin's single-parcel Champagnes showcase the unique attributes of a handful of sites near the winery. The wines are almost always single-vintage (not declared) although at times, Collin blends in juice from another year for balance. Considering how uneven the vintage has turned out to be, Collin's 2011s are solid across the board. My preference would be to drink the wines sooner rather than later. With his boyish enthusiasm and boundless energy, Olivier Collin is one of Champagne's most promising young producers.
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2015 - 2020
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A visit with Olivier Collin is always a highlight of a trip to Champagne. Collin's boundless energy and enthusiasm comes through so clearly in the fine, artisan Champagnes. Virtually all of the emphasis is on the vineyards, while the cellar is simple and stripped down to the bare essentials. All of the wines are fermented and aged in neutral oak. Tasting Collin's wines from barrel is a treat, as the terroir signatures are clearly marked, while the precision in the wines is uncanny. Collin's 2010s are quite pretty, especially considering the challenging conditions towards the end of the growing season. Rot was rampant and required careful sorting. My impression is that these wines are best enjoyed over the next handful of years.
00
2014 - 2021
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I first tasted Olivier Collin's 2009s from barrel, then from bottles disgorged à la volée. The finished, bottled wines are just as terrific as they have always been. Overall, the 2009s have plenty of cut, but perhaps just a touch less precision and focus than the 2008s. Still, these remain some of the most compelling wines being made in Champagne today. All of these wines are fermented and aged in barrel, in what is ultimately a distinctly Burgundian approach to making Champagne.
00
2013 - 2017
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Olivier Collin's estate is practically in the middle of nowhere, but it is well worth a visit. Collin crafts beguiling, totally fascinating Champagnes from his tiny facility in the sleepy town of Congy. The wines are fermented and aged in barrel (with some less stirring) and bottled without fining or filtration. This year Collin has a new wine, the Chardonnay Les Roises, from fruit that was previously sold to the négoce. These remain some of the most unique and thrilling wines being made in Champagne. There is little question Collin's wines are now on the same level as those of his mentor, Anselme Selosse.
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