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Larry Turley, who has retired from emergency room doctoring to concentrate on his growing winemaking empire (production was up to about 6,000 cases in 1996), bottled no less than ten zinfandels in '96, nine of them vineyard-designated. What especially striking about these wines, several of which are from small plots of very old vines, is their distinctly different site characteristics, not to mention widely varying ripeness and alcohol levels. Though some are headspinners, they do not convey the impression of being manipulated or forced. In contrast to 1995, a vintage that produced a couple of bottlings with awkwardly high levels of residual sugar, the '96 Turley zins are all technically dry. On the crystal-clear afternoon I tasted through the '96s with winemaker Ehren Jordan, most of these wines seemed rather muted on the nose. It is entirely possible that they will prove to be even a bit stronger than my notes indicate.
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