2004 Troplong Mondot

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Cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Taleyson told me that 2006 "just lacked a little ripeness of the grape skins and seeds," and thus the team kept the fermentation temperatures a bit lower; only one cuve received a pre-fermentation cold soak. Taleyson believes the wine has "vivacity and elegance" but there's still a full 14% alcohol here. The 2006 looks to be a worthwhile successor to the otherworldly 2005 made here, which is the best wine I've ever tasted from this estate.

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This is the most spectacular young vintage of Troplong-Mondot I've tasted to date. Cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Taleyson, who started working here in 1985, calls it the best in 30 years. The indice de polyphenols totaux is a lofty 85, which Taleyson says is due to "the great material and to the tiny cluster size of the merlot in 2005-half as big as usual." The alcohol of this monster is close to 15% but the impression is of vibrant, explosive fruit. "When [consulting winemaker] Michel Rolland tasted this wine, he said it didn't need anything," Taleyson summarized. Some early tasters have compared the young 2005 to the 1990 Troplong-Mondot, but the new vintage has brighter acidity and a lower pH.

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Although the 2004 and 2003 growing seasons were vastly different in character, both favored Troplong-Mondot's cold, late-ripening soils. Proprietor Christine Valette describes the young 2004 as a classic, but admits that there were a lot of grapes in 2004, with a yield of 40 hectoliters per hectare that was almost exactly twice as high as the previous year. A moderate saignee was used to concentrate the must, but a "normal extraction without excess" was done to preserve fruit and elegance. "Our intention has been to make something that's agreeable to drink, not an immense vin de garde," explained Valette.

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