1998 Troplong Mondot
France
Saint Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc (2024 vintage)
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2018 - 2030
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The late-ripening Mondot plateau was clearly a favored area of St. Emilion in 2000, producing very ripe merlot and cabernet. "There was no problem with drought in 2000," noted proprietor Christine Valette. "That the last problem we have here." Valette compared her clearly outstanding 2000 to the '90, "a year of reference for us. The 2000 is low in acidity, like the '90, and very tannic, but there's less surmaturite and thus more elegance." Valette extracted more gently in 2000 to conserve fruit; total cuvaison was just 12 days, as the wine was taken off its skins quickly following the end of the fermentation. The percentage of new barrels was limited to 70% to preserve the floral character of the vintage.
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The crop level here was just 35 hectoliters per hectare in '99, the same as in '98, and potential alcohol was 13%, as in the previous year. But the acidity level is higher in '99 and the pH lower, suggesting that the fruit ripened less successfully. The percentage of new oak was reduced from 100% in '98 to 85% in '99.
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Christine Valette believes her young '98 is at the same quality level as her 1990, but the '98 is more classic than the atypically ripe '90. On these heavy, cold argilo-calcaire soils, the heat of August was not a problem for the vines, but the harvest didn't begin until September 29. The overall yield was just 34 hectoliters per hectare, according to Valette, and grape sugars were high: around 13.1% for the merlot and an impressive 12.6% for the cabernets, which together comprise just 20% of the blend. But there was no surmaturite in '98, she added, and there nothing artificial about the concentration of the wine.
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