1996 Troplong Mondot
France
Saint Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
Merlot
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Christine Valette believes her young '98 is at the same quality level as her 1990, but the '98 is more classic than the atypically ripe '90. On these heavy, cold argilo-calcaire soils, the heat of August was not a problem for the vines, but the harvest didn't begin until September 29. The overall yield was just 34 hectoliters per hectare, according to Valette, and grape sugars were high: around 13.1% for the merlot and an impressive 12.6% for the cabernets, which together comprise just 20% of the blend. But there was no surmaturite in '98, she added, and there nothing artificial about the concentration of the wine.
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Christine Valette has made an unusually elegant wine in '97, with a velvety texture rare for the vintage. "It was essential to wait," said Valette, whose team delayed the merlot harvest until September 30 and did not finish the cabernet franc until October 15. "Millerandage cut crop levels by as much as 50%, but ultimately we had homogeneous quality," said Valette, who made very little of her second wine in '97. A shorter, gentler extraction was used to handle this more delicate vintage. Malolactic in oak since the '91 vintage has contributed roundness to this powerfully structured wine from poor, sandy soil.