2019 Troplong Mondot
France
Saint Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc (2024 vintage)
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2019
2025 - 2050
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2024
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“It [2024] was complicated,” admitted Aymeric de Gironde, together with Technical Director Rémi Monribot. “There was a lot of work. We had the highest rain ever, then two months without a drop, then more rain in September. For us, the rain in the growing season was annoying and created a lot of mildew pressure, though it’s been like that for the last six years. Spring will always have episodes of rain, and it comes when the vines are in leaf, so you must plan ahead. We’ve increased grass cover between the rows, around 35% of the vineyard. We don’t perceive mildew as a threat, and being located on a hill helps us.”
Aymeric de Gironde continued, “Flowering was fairly slow and uneven, with a bit of coulure and millerandage that created less compact clusters. In summer, we had a nice steady maturation. It was challenging but not impossible. In April, we anticipated picking from September 4, but we ended up picking from September 20. Harvest lasted three weeks. The choice was between quantity and maturity. We chose the latter, so we cropped at 35 hl/ha and made huge selections as we went along. This was a vintage for those with the means to wait and potentially lose some production. Troplong Mondot has a natural density of wine from the parcels in the heart of the vineyards that means we do well in cooler vintages. We didn’t have to extract too hard, as the density was naturally present.”
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2024
2026 - 2030
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2023
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2023
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2022
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2022
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2022
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2021
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2021
2028 - 2044
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To entertain tasters, as if they were not being entertained enough with the 2021s, Aymeric de Gironde has organized a Top Gear-inspired racecourse for his miniature Jeeps. I declined an invitation to have a go at breaking the lap record. De Gironde has radically changed course since Xavier Pariente sold his estate, pursuant of a more early-picked, terroir-driven style. “We cropped at 47hL/ha as we were not affected by frost,” he told me. “We found that the molasse soils imparted the substance in the 2021, whereas the second label, Mondot, comes solely from the recently purchased chateaux [Clos Labarde and Château Bellisle Mondotte]. We found that the blending was difficult and the 2021 was complicated to vinify. For the first time in my life, I could not see the outcome. It didn’t seem to glue together, but when we added the final lots. it gelled.”
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2020
2027 - 2050
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2020
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2019
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2019
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2019
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2019
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2018
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2018
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2018
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These two superb wines from Troplong Mondot continue a path the estate started in 2017 under the leadership of CEO Aymeric de Gironde and consulting winemaker Thomas Duclos. In 2018, harvest began on September 7, one of the earliest starts in town. The wines were crushed without SO2, which was only added when the wines were barreled down. Fermentation was done with mostly pumpowers, not punchdowns and only a little délestage. As for the wines, well, they are simply magnificent.
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2017
2027 - 2047
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2017
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2017
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The last time I saw Aymeric de Gironde was up in Saint-Estèphe at Cos d’Estournel, when I was maintaining my poker face as the 2016 blew me away. Twelve months later, I did not expect to see him at Troplong-Mondot. But as I said, Bordeaux moves fast these days and his was just one of a number of personnel changes in the Bordeaux merry-go-round. He certainly seemed a happy chap in his new role. On the day I visited, he was busy blowing up balloons for that evening’s soirée for négoçiants before it closes to commence refurbishment. “I was here on the first day of the harvest. That was my first day,” de Gironde told me, putting the finishing touches to one of those long sausage balloons that takes an entire afternoon to blow up. “I came a few weeks before visiting the vineyard and I felt it was important that we start quite early. So we began the picking on 18 September and cropped at 40hl/ha. Fortunately we had not suffered frost damage apart from a tiny part towards the north where there is a cool wind. That may be a week before what might have normally done.”
It is evident that Aymeric de Gironde was not appointed to maintain the status quo.
“I want a few things to be different. I think we have one of the most unique terroirs in the area because we occupy one of the highest points. There is a circle that consists of non-eroded clay and large stones with flint. This is rather unique. Then there is the terroir on the outside of the estate where you have limestone and several layers of clay. When I looked at the map, we have one of the most heterogeneous terroirs in the area, so it was important for me to decide in terms of picking, how we exploit each of these different areas. So we push it to the extreme but have a very non-intrusive vinification in terms of remontage and oxygen ingress, to work on the aromatic precision of each parcel so that they differ from each other. Then we work on the blending, which is where the complexity comes from. The idea is to have fresh clean aromatics. The power is already there and it is not necessary to exaggerate it, you don’t have to force anything. I am looking for a contained power. We have hired Thomas Duclot as a consultant. In the future we will be doing the malolactic in tank instead of barrel, brought in three new barrel makers to have more variety and reduced the amount of new oak to around 65% instead of 90 to 100%.”
The result is a Troplong Mondot cut from a different cloth to previous vintages. Same pattern – different feel. I have criticized recent vintages of Troplong Mondot because frankly, when the scales tip 16 percent alcohol, then to use de Gironde’s own vernacular, you are just exaggerating what you already have, glossing over attributes with otiose winemaking. And credit to former own Xavier Pariente. He always took my occasional battering in good spirit and you know, deep down I think he knew I was making a valid point. Troplong will always be dear to my heart because it was the first château I ever dined at back in 1997 with the late Christine Vallette. And in a way, I felt that it has never quite discovered what it is, what it can be and consequently pandered to fashion. That will not be the case under Aymeric de Gironde. He told me that the owners have essentially given him Carte Blanche to refashion Troplong Mondot and have little doubt it will become one of the top Saint-Émilions within a decade. The 2017 is a great start. It’s not the best wine they will ever produce; yet it is a clear statement that a new chapter has opened. And with that, I let Aymeric de Gironde continue blowing up his balloons. He only had another 200 to go.
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2016
2021 - 2035
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2016
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2015
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2014
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2014
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2014
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2014
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It's frankly quite difficult to visit Troplong Mondot a year after Christine Valette's passing, as my mind wanders to the same period twelve months ago when the mood in St.-Emilion was naturally quite depressed. The first Troplong Mondot I tasted was the 1990, and it left a vivid impression that remains to this day. Fast forward to current times. The estate has another gorgeous wine on its hands with the 2014. Harvest took place between October 3 and 21. The wine spent 4-6 weeks on the skins and malos were unusually early for an estate where the malos tend to take place later.
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2013
2023 - 2030
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2013
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The entire Bordeaux and wine loving community was shocked and deeply saddened by the recent passing of proprietress Christine Valette as the en primeur tastings were about to get started. Valette, just 58, made a deep, lasting impact for her many contributions, including elevating the status of Troplong Mondot.
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2012
2022 - 2032
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2012
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2011
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2010
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2009
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2009
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2009
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2008
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2008
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2007
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2007
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The 2007 harvest on this cold plateau east of St. Emilion took place very late, from October 9 through 19, and cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Taleyson told me that 30% of the crop was eliminated in the vines. In fact, he noted, the harvesting team actually made five passes through the vines to pick with the greatest possible precision. A 15% saignee was done to concentrate the must, compared to 20% in 2006.
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2006
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2006
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The 2007 harvest on this cold plateau east of St. Emilion took place very late, from October 9 through 19, and cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Taleyson told me that 30% of the crop was eliminated in the vines. In fact, he noted, the harvesting team actually made five passes through the vines to pick with the greatest possible precision. A 15% saignee was done to concentrate the must, compared to 20% in 2006.
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2006
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Cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Taleyson told me that 2006 "just lacked a little ripeness of the grape skins and seeds," and thus the team kept the fermentation temperatures a bit lower; only one cuve received a pre-fermentation cold soak. Taleyson believes the wine has "vivacity and elegance" but there's still a full 14% alcohol here. The 2006 looks to be a worthwhile successor to the otherworldly 2005 made here, which is the best wine I've ever tasted from this estate.
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2005
2021 - 2035
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2005
2015 - 2035
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This wine was tasted as part of our 2005 Bordeaux with Stephen Tanzer and Antonio Galloni event held in October, 2015.
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2005
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
The 2007 harvest on this cold plateau east of St. Emilion took place very late, from October 9 through 19, and cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Taleyson told me that 30% of the crop was eliminated in the vines. In fact, he noted, the harvesting team actually made five passes through the vines to pick with the greatest possible precision. A 15% saignee was done to concentrate the must, compared to 20% in 2006.
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2005
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Cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Taleyson told me that 2006 "just lacked a little ripeness of the grape skins and seeds," and thus the team kept the fermentation temperatures a bit lower; only one cuve received a pre-fermentation cold soak. Taleyson believes the wine has "vivacity and elegance" but there's still a full 14% alcohol here. The 2006 looks to be a worthwhile successor to the otherworldly 2005 made here, which is the best wine I've ever tasted from this estate.
00
2005
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This is the most spectacular young vintage of Troplong-Mondot I've tasted to date. Cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Taleyson, who started working here in 1985, calls it the best in 30 years. The indice de polyphenols totaux is a lofty 85, which Taleyson says is due to "the great material and to the tiny cluster size of the merlot in 2005-half as big as usual." The alcohol of this monster is close to 15% but the impression is of vibrant, explosive fruit. "When [consulting winemaker] Michel Rolland tasted this wine, he said it didn't need anything," Taleyson summarized. Some early tasters have compared the young 2005 to the 1990 Troplong-Mondot, but the new vintage has brighter acidity and a lower pH.
00
2004
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Cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Taleyson told me that 2006 "just lacked a little ripeness of the grape skins and seeds," and thus the team kept the fermentation temperatures a bit lower; only one cuve received a pre-fermentation cold soak. Taleyson believes the wine has "vivacity and elegance" but there's still a full 14% alcohol here. The 2006 looks to be a worthwhile successor to the otherworldly 2005 made here, which is the best wine I've ever tasted from this estate.
00
2004
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This is the most spectacular young vintage of Troplong-Mondot I've tasted to date. Cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Taleyson, who started working here in 1985, calls it the best in 30 years. The indice de polyphenols totaux is a lofty 85, which Taleyson says is due to "the great material and to the tiny cluster size of the merlot in 2005-half as big as usual." The alcohol of this monster is close to 15% but the impression is of vibrant, explosive fruit. "When [consulting winemaker] Michel Rolland tasted this wine, he said it didn't need anything," Taleyson summarized. Some early tasters have compared the young 2005 to the 1990 Troplong-Mondot, but the new vintage has brighter acidity and a lower pH.
00
2004
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Although the 2004 and 2003 growing seasons were vastly different in character, both favored Troplong-Mondot's cold, late-ripening soils. Proprietor Christine Valette describes the young 2004 as a classic, but admits that there were a lot of grapes in 2004, with a yield of 40 hectoliters per hectare that was almost exactly twice as high as the previous year. A moderate saignee was used to concentrate the must, but a "normal extraction without excess" was done to preserve fruit and elegance. "Our intention has been to make something that's agreeable to drink, not an immense vin de garde," explained Valette.
00
2003
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This is the most spectacular young vintage of Troplong-Mondot I've tasted to date. Cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Taleyson, who started working here in 1985, calls it the best in 30 years. The indice de polyphenols totaux is a lofty 85, which Taleyson says is due to "the great material and to the tiny cluster size of the merlot in 2005-half as big as usual." The alcohol of this monster is close to 15% but the impression is of vibrant, explosive fruit. "When [consulting winemaker] Michel Rolland tasted this wine, he said it didn't need anything," Taleyson summarized. Some early tasters have compared the young 2005 to the 1990 Troplong-Mondot, but the new vintage has brighter acidity and a lower pH.
00
2003
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Although the 2004 and 2003 growing seasons were vastly different in character, both favored Troplong-Mondot's cold, late-ripening soils. Proprietor Christine Valette describes the young 2004 as a classic, but admits that there were a lot of grapes in 2004, with a yield of 40 hectoliters per hectare that was almost exactly twice as high as the previous year. A moderate saignee was used to concentrate the must, but a "normal extraction without excess" was done to preserve fruit and elegance. "Our intention has been to make something that's agreeable to drink, not an immense vin de garde," explained Valette.
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2003
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Christine Valette described the September 25 start to Troplong-Mondot's 2002 harvest as early-and then came 2003, when the chateau began picking its grapes two weeks earlier, even on these late-ripening, cold soils. The yield was in the tiny 20 hectoliters-per-hectare range, and there will be almost no second wine in 2003 because of the consistently high quality of the fruit, according to Valette. This is an extremely ripe, almost exotic 2003 in the making that is likely to be a crowd-pleaser. I have the impression that extraction during vinification has been a bit more gentle here in recent years, and this is all to the good.
00
2002
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Although the 2004 and 2003 growing seasons were vastly different in character, both favored Troplong-Mondot's cold, late-ripening soils. Proprietor Christine Valette describes the young 2004 as a classic, but admits that there were a lot of grapes in 2004, with a yield of 40 hectoliters per hectare that was almost exactly twice as high as the previous year. A moderate saignee was used to concentrate the must, but a "normal extraction without excess" was done to preserve fruit and elegance. "Our intention has been to make something that's agreeable to drink, not an immense vin de garde," explained Valette.
00
2002
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Christine Valette described the September 25 start to Troplong-Mondot's 2002 harvest as early-and then came 2003, when the chateau began picking its grapes two weeks earlier, even on these late-ripening, cold soils. The yield was in the tiny 20 hectoliters-per-hectare range, and there will be almost no second wine in 2003 because of the consistently high quality of the fruit, according to Valette. This is an extremely ripe, almost exotic 2003 in the making that is likely to be a crowd-pleaser. I have the impression that extraction during vinification has been a bit more gentle here in recent years, and this is all to the good.
00
2002
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2001
2023 - 2043
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2001
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Christine Valette described the September 25 start to Troplong-Mondot's 2002 harvest as early-and then came 2003, when the chateau began picking its grapes two weeks earlier, even on these late-ripening, cold soils. The yield was in the tiny 20 hectoliters-per-hectare range, and there will be almost no second wine in 2003 because of the consistently high quality of the fruit, according to Valette. This is an extremely ripe, almost exotic 2003 in the making that is likely to be a crowd-pleaser. I have the impression that extraction during vinification has been a bit more gentle here in recent years, and this is all to the good.
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2001
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2001
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This property brought in just 27 hectoliters per hectare in 2001, according to cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Taleyson, with the merlot coming in with up to 13.6% natural alcohol and cabernet as high as 13%. "The fruit showed a wide range of ripeness," said Taleyson, "with some surmaturite 2000 was a great year; it was a bit like 1990 at first but now it seems closer in style to our 1989."
00
2000
2021 - 2038
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This property brought in just 27 hectoliters per hectare in 2001, according to cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Taleyson, with the merlot coming in with up to 13.6% natural alcohol and cabernet as high as 13%. "The fruit showed a wide range of ripeness," said Taleyson, "with some surmaturite 2000 was a great year; it was a bit like 1990 at first but now it seems closer in style to our 1989."
00
2000
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The late-ripening Mondot plateau was clearly a favored area of St. Emilion in 2000, producing very ripe merlot and cabernet. "There was no problem with drought in 2000," noted proprietor Christine Valette. "That the last problem we have here." Valette compared her clearly outstanding 2000 to the '90, "a year of reference for us. The 2000 is low in acidity, like the '90, and very tannic, but there's less surmaturite and thus more elegance." Valette extracted more gently in 2000 to conserve fruit; total cuvaison was just 12 days, as the wine was taken off its skins quickly following the end of the fermentation. The percentage of new barrels was limited to 70% to preserve the floral character of the vintage.
00
1999
2019 - 2029
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1999
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This property brought in just 27 hectoliters per hectare in 2001, according to cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Taleyson, with the merlot coming in with up to 13.6% natural alcohol and cabernet as high as 13%. "The fruit showed a wide range of ripeness," said Taleyson, "with some surmaturite 2000 was a great year; it was a bit like 1990 at first but now it seems closer in style to our 1989."
00
1999
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The late-ripening Mondot plateau was clearly a favored area of St. Emilion in 2000, producing very ripe merlot and cabernet. "There was no problem with drought in 2000," noted proprietor Christine Valette. "That the last problem we have here." Valette compared her clearly outstanding 2000 to the '90, "a year of reference for us. The 2000 is low in acidity, like the '90, and very tannic, but there's less surmaturite and thus more elegance." Valette extracted more gently in 2000 to conserve fruit; total cuvaison was just 12 days, as the wine was taken off its skins quickly following the end of the fermentation. The percentage of new barrels was limited to 70% to preserve the floral character of the vintage.
00
1999
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The crop level here was just 35 hectoliters per hectare in '99, the same as in '98, and potential alcohol was 13%, as in the previous year. But the acidity level is higher in '99 and the pH lower, suggesting that the fruit ripened less successfully. The percentage of new oak was reduced from 100% in '98 to 85% in '99.
00
1998
2018 - 2030
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1998
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The late-ripening Mondot plateau was clearly a favored area of St. Emilion in 2000, producing very ripe merlot and cabernet. "There was no problem with drought in 2000," noted proprietor Christine Valette. "That the last problem we have here." Valette compared her clearly outstanding 2000 to the '90, "a year of reference for us. The 2000 is low in acidity, like the '90, and very tannic, but there's less surmaturite and thus more elegance." Valette extracted more gently in 2000 to conserve fruit; total cuvaison was just 12 days, as the wine was taken off its skins quickly following the end of the fermentation. The percentage of new barrels was limited to 70% to preserve the floral character of the vintage.
00
1998
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The crop level here was just 35 hectoliters per hectare in '99, the same as in '98, and potential alcohol was 13%, as in the previous year. But the acidity level is higher in '99 and the pH lower, suggesting that the fruit ripened less successfully. The percentage of new oak was reduced from 100% in '98 to 85% in '99.
00
1998
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Christine Valette believes her young '98 is at the same quality level as her 1990, but the '98 is more classic than the atypically ripe '90. On these heavy, cold argilo-calcaire soils, the heat of August was not a problem for the vines, but the harvest didn't begin until September 29. The overall yield was just 34 hectoliters per hectare, according to Valette, and grape sugars were high: around 13.1% for the merlot and an impressive 12.6% for the cabernets, which together comprise just 20% of the blend. But there was no surmaturite in '98, she added, and there nothing artificial about the concentration of the wine.
00
1997
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Christine Valette believes her young '98 is at the same quality level as her 1990, but the '98 is more classic than the atypically ripe '90. On these heavy, cold argilo-calcaire soils, the heat of August was not a problem for the vines, but the harvest didn't begin until September 29. The overall yield was just 34 hectoliters per hectare, according to Valette, and grape sugars were high: around 13.1% for the merlot and an impressive 12.6% for the cabernets, which together comprise just 20% of the blend. But there was no surmaturite in '98, she added, and there nothing artificial about the concentration of the wine.
00
1997
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Christine Valette has made an unusually elegant wine in '97, with a velvety texture rare for the vintage. "It was essential to wait," said Valette, whose team delayed the merlot harvest until September 30 and did not finish the cabernet franc until October 15. "Millerandage cut crop levels by as much as 50%, but ultimately we had homogeneous quality," said Valette, who made very little of her second wine in '97. A shorter, gentler extraction was used to handle this more delicate vintage. Malolactic in oak since the '91 vintage has contributed roundness to this powerfully structured wine from poor, sandy soil.
00
1996
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Christine Valette believes her young '98 is at the same quality level as her 1990, but the '98 is more classic than the atypically ripe '90. On these heavy, cold argilo-calcaire soils, the heat of August was not a problem for the vines, but the harvest didn't begin until September 29. The overall yield was just 34 hectoliters per hectare, according to Valette, and grape sugars were high: around 13.1% for the merlot and an impressive 12.6% for the cabernets, which together comprise just 20% of the blend. But there was no surmaturite in '98, she added, and there nothing artificial about the concentration of the wine.
00
1996
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Christine Valette has made an unusually elegant wine in '97, with a velvety texture rare for the vintage. "It was essential to wait," said Valette, whose team delayed the merlot harvest until September 30 and did not finish the cabernet franc until October 15. "Millerandage cut crop levels by as much as 50%, but ultimately we had homogeneous quality," said Valette, who made very little of her second wine in '97. A shorter, gentler extraction was used to handle this more delicate vintage. Malolactic in oak since the '91 vintage has contributed roundness to this powerfully structured wine from poor, sandy soil.
00
1995
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Christine Valette has made an unusually elegant wine in '97, with a velvety texture rare for the vintage. "It was essential to wait," said Valette, whose team delayed the merlot harvest until September 30 and did not finish the cabernet franc until October 15. "Millerandage cut crop levels by as much as 50%, but ultimately we had homogeneous quality," said Valette, who made very little of her second wine in '97. A shorter, gentler extraction was used to handle this more delicate vintage. Malolactic in oak since the '91 vintage has contributed roundness to this powerfully structured wine from poor, sandy soil.
00
1995
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This estate routinely drops 20% to 50% of its crop in June, depending on the parcel, and the yield in '95 was reportedly only 38 hectoliters per hectare. The harvest here started late, on September 20, and potential alcohol averaged more than 13%. Three-quarters of the malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel. I found the '95 more stylish and expressive than the '94, which, as it did last year, struck me as a bit heavyhanded, though undeniably concentrated.
00
1994
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This estate routinely drops 20% to 50% of its crop in June, depending on the parcel, and the yield in '95 was reportedly only 38 hectoliters per hectare. The harvest here started late, on September 20, and potential alcohol averaged more than 13%. Three-quarters of the malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel. I found the '95 more stylish and expressive than the '94, which, as it did last year, struck me as a bit heavyhanded, though undeniably concentrated.
00
1990
2019 - 2029
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1989
2019 - 2024
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1988
2018 - 2025
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1982
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1945
2024 - 2044
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