2022 Tertre-Rôteboeuf
France
Bordeaux
Red
80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc (2023 vintage)
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2022
2030 - 2060
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2023
2030 - 2043
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2021
2031 - 2061
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2021
2029 - 2055
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“It is a vintage where the vine was disturbed by the climate and suffered,” François Mitjavile explained down in his cellar. “The date of harvest was not easy to understand. It was heterogeneous because of hail and mildew. Everything was disturbing. The first question to ask about the 2021 vintage is whether you could obtain sufficient ripeness levels. If you could, then this long vegetative cycle manifested wines with more red fruit than black, confit-like fruit. Due to the rain, acidity levels are rather low, and the structure is supple, whilst the polyphenols are slightly tenderised. This makes the wines approachable and charming, quite aromatic. By bottling, the wine will be ample and advanced, also graceful. We did not have frost or mildew, but the summer was cold and humid, and this meant that the life of the soil was poor. We picked between 5 and 12 October, and there is around 30% less in volume, partly because of coulure, though it was not really a big problem here.”
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2021
2031 - 2061
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2020
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2020
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2019
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2019
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2019
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2018
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2018
2026 - 2043
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2017
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2017
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2017
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2017
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Saint-Émilion’s philosopher in residence, François Mitjavile, oversaw a classic Tertre-Rôteboeuf. It is always a joy to see Mitjavile and tasting in his cellar is always more akin to Burgundy than Bordeaux, pipette dunked directly into barrel rather than pre-prepared samples. François Mitjavile himself has a more Burgundy-like mindset than Bordeaux. “We had no frost at all at Domaine des Cambes, Roc de Cambes and Tertre-Rôteboeuf,” he reassured. “I have not tasted any wines except my own, but I say that I know the climate and how the fruit ripened. Whether it was frosted or not, there is coherence in terms of vintage character. Alive and elegant, lace-like beauty – you can see this. Even if it is dense, the danger is that it can sometimes be insufficiently ripe and the gentleness of flavors will hide the unripe structure and the wines will look closed. The trap is that if the color is too black and the freshness can hide the coarseness of the tannin, as a consequence it will not have the ability to mature in bottle.” Although Mitjavile could not fathom how his fruit achieved such ripeness given the rain just prior to harvest, the bottom line is that he did and the result is a quintessential Tertre-Rôteboeuf. For those that love this wine, you will adore the 2017 not just here, but also his brilliant Roc de Cambes in Côtes de Bourg.
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2016
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2016
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2016
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2015
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2015
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2014
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2014
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François Mitjavile and his daughter, Nina, make some of the most original wines in Bordeaux. The tiny, cramped cellar looks much more like something one might see in Burgundy rather than in Bordeaux. Some of the signatures here include the incredibly low trained vines, late harvests and long period of elevage in oak, but it is really the vision of the Mitjavile family that results in striking wines loaded with personality.
00
2013
2025 - 2032
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2013
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2013
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François Mitjavile is one of Saint Emilion's most intriguing growers. The scale at Tertre Rotebouef is distinctly Burgundian and stands in stark contrast to the glittery chateaus that are so prominent here. Visitors will note an unusual and maniacal attention to the vineyards, which includes, among other things, some of the lowest pruning I have ever seen anywhere in the world. In the cellar, the approach is decidedly minimalist. The wines spend much longer in barrel than is the norm in Bordeaux. In addition to the 2013, I also tasted a number of other wines, including the 2012, which is still aging in separate lots in barrel at a time when virtually every other estate is in fining and final preparations for imminent bottling.
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2012
2018 - 2032
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2012
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2011
2022 - 2035
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2011
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2011
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2010
2022 - 2040
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2010
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2010
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2009
2021 - 2045
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2009
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2009
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Owner Francois Mitjavile joked about the hail that hit his vineyard, cutting his production by 35% in 2009. "An American friend called to commiserate, but when he said something like 'the artist within you must have felt your spirit torn by the hail,' I felt like telling him, 'no, all the darn thing did was cost me a ton of money!'" Mitjavile can smile about the hail because he knows he has made one of the stars of the vintage, and there probably would not have been enough to satisfy demand even without the hail.
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2008
2018 - 2040
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There was no easing into the job and frankly I would not want it any other way on my first day. Wines tasted in the morning at an annual ten-year on Bordeaux tasting on one side of the Atlantic, written up on the flight over to New York with my mouth still coated in tannin and completed on the other side of the Atlantic...just a day in the life, so that readers get an idea how things are going to roll with the 2008 Bordeaux.
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2008
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2007
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Two thousand seven was a very difficult climate for the grape vine, and harvesting at the right moment was tricky, said Francois Mitjavile. "The challenge was to get true maturity," he began. "Lots of wines have charming, primary aromas that are not too ripe, but this type of wine could not be extracted without getting rough tannins. And at the other extreme, people who picked their merlot too late found that their fruit lost its fruit: that is, part of the fruit lost its aromatic expression and faded away. But ideally ripe fruit in 2007 has real dynamism." Mitjavile picked his amphitheater vineyard in three days flat, beginning on October 8. And he credited his wife and daughter with helping him harvest at the right time. "They came to me on a Sunday and said 'you must come and taste the grapes.' I was not planning to start picking yet, but I tasted the grapes and they were right. We started harvesting the next day." Incidentally, Mitjavile has never made a second wine at this estate, so what he sees is what you get. "The character of the vintage is very strong here because there is no selection," he pointed out.
00
2006
2018 - 2033
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2006
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2006
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Two thousand seven was a very difficult climate for the grape vine, and harvesting at the right moment was tricky, said Francois Mitjavile. "The challenge was to get true maturity," he began. "Lots of wines have charming, primary aromas that are not too ripe, but this type of wine could not be extracted without getting rough tannins. And at the other extreme, people who picked their merlot too late found that their fruit lost its fruit: that is, part of the fruit lost its aromatic expression and faded away. But ideally ripe fruit in 2007 has real dynamism." Mitjavile picked his amphitheater vineyard in three days flat, beginning on October 8. And he credited his wife and daughter with helping him harvest at the right time. "They came to me on a Sunday and said 'you must come and taste the grapes.' I was not planning to start picking yet, but I tasted the grapes and they were right. We started harvesting the next day." Incidentally, Mitjavile has never made a second wine at this estate, so what he sees is what you get. "The character of the vintage is very strong here because there is no selection," he pointed out.
00
2006
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Francois Mitjavile prizes 2006 for its combination of freshness and ripeness. He compared the new vintage to 1996, but believes that the better 2006s are riper and more gracious wines that will blossom more fully than the earlier vintage. "July here was terribly dry, and the conditions built small grapes. At that point we were expecting a very early harvest. But then the rains in September resulted in a very quick spread of rot in certain areas, and picking at the right time was crucial. This season brought the biggest crop of mushrooms all over France in my lifetime." Once again, I was struck by how distinctive Mitjavile's wines are, his Roc de Cambes (a property in the Cotes de Bourg) as well as the Tertre Roteboeuf: with their exotic, liqueur-like sweetness, creaminess of texture and pronounced torrefaction qualities, they stand out from virtually all the other wines I taste each year in Bordeaux. Mitjavile emphasizes that he makes "very worked wines" of elevage: typically they are racked a good nine times before they are bottled.
00
2005
2030 - 2060
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2005
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Two thousand seven was a very difficult climate for the grape vine, and harvesting at the right moment was tricky, said Francois Mitjavile. "The challenge was to get true maturity," he began. "Lots of wines have charming, primary aromas that are not too ripe, but this type of wine could not be extracted without getting rough tannins. And at the other extreme, people who picked their merlot too late found that their fruit lost its fruit: that is, part of the fruit lost its aromatic expression and faded away. But ideally ripe fruit in 2007 has real dynamism." Mitjavile picked his amphitheater vineyard in three days flat, beginning on October 8. And he credited his wife and daughter with helping him harvest at the right time. "They came to me on a Sunday and said 'you must come and taste the grapes.' I was not planning to start picking yet, but I tasted the grapes and they were right. We started harvesting the next day." Incidentally, Mitjavile has never made a second wine at this estate, so what he sees is what you get. "The character of the vintage is very strong here because there is no selection," he pointed out.
00
2005
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Francois Mitjavile prizes 2006 for its combination of freshness and ripeness. He compared the new vintage to 1996, but believes that the better 2006s are riper and more gracious wines that will blossom more fully than the earlier vintage. "July here was terribly dry, and the conditions built small grapes. At that point we were expecting a very early harvest. But then the rains in September resulted in a very quick spread of rot in certain areas, and picking at the right time was crucial. This season brought the biggest crop of mushrooms all over France in my lifetime." Once again, I was struck by how distinctive Mitjavile's wines are, his Roc de Cambes (a property in the Cotes de Bourg) as well as the Tertre Roteboeuf: with their exotic, liqueur-like sweetness, creaminess of texture and pronounced torrefaction qualities, they stand out from virtually all the other wines I taste each year in Bordeaux. Mitjavile emphasizes that he makes "very worked wines" of elevage: typically they are racked a good nine times before they are bottled.
00
2005
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"Since 1982 there have been two main kinds of vintages in Bordeaux," said Francois Mitjavile: "early, low-acid vintages that often show a heavy, animal character, and later vintages with fresh acidity and vibrant, more classic fruit flavors that some people would describe as lacking in maturity. But 2005 is the first vintage since 1982 that offers both total ripeness and freshness. There's a brilliance to the fruit in 2005. Some people have slightly underripe tannins that are well-buffered by fruit. But others have overextracted and gotten rude, hard tannins." Mitjavile noted that he did not harvest especially late in 2005, as he wanted to preserve freshness of fruit. "I only pick late in years when it's hard to ripen the fruit," he said.
00
2004
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Francois Mitjavile prizes 2006 for its combination of freshness and ripeness. He compared the new vintage to 1996, but believes that the better 2006s are riper and more gracious wines that will blossom more fully than the earlier vintage. "July here was terribly dry, and the conditions built small grapes. At that point we were expecting a very early harvest. But then the rains in September resulted in a very quick spread of rot in certain areas, and picking at the right time was crucial. This season brought the biggest crop of mushrooms all over France in my lifetime." Once again, I was struck by how distinctive Mitjavile's wines are, his Roc de Cambes (a property in the Cotes de Bourg) as well as the Tertre Roteboeuf: with their exotic, liqueur-like sweetness, creaminess of texture and pronounced torrefaction qualities, they stand out from virtually all the other wines I taste each year in Bordeaux. Mitjavile emphasizes that he makes "very worked wines" of elevage: typically they are racked a good nine times before they are bottled.
00
2004
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"Since 1982 there have been two main kinds of vintages in Bordeaux," said Francois Mitjavile: "early, low-acid vintages that often show a heavy, animal character, and later vintages with fresh acidity and vibrant, more classic fruit flavors that some people would describe as lacking in maturity. But 2005 is the first vintage since 1982 that offers both total ripeness and freshness. There's a brilliance to the fruit in 2005. Some people have slightly underripe tannins that are well-buffered by fruit. But others have overextracted and gotten rude, hard tannins." Mitjavile noted that he did not harvest especially late in 2005, as he wanted to preserve freshness of fruit. "I only pick late in years when it's hard to ripen the fruit," he said.
00
2004
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According to Francois Mitjavile, 2003 was a terribly hot year during which the vineyards suffered. "The 2003 wines are extremely concentrated, black wines but also rude and aggressive, if not cooked," said Mitjavile. "The huge flowering in the late spring of 2004 then exhausted the vines. With the summer came an explosion of black and red septentrionale [northern in character] fruits. The problem is that it was nearly impossible to get the tannins thoroughly ripe, and the vintage has high acidity. Even here, our skins are not riper than those of 2002, but the fruit is explosive in 2004." Incidentally, Mitjavile's concept of terroir, of making a true estate wine, calls for growing the best possible fruit and then using it all: he has never made a second wine.
00
2003
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"Since 1982 there have been two main kinds of vintages in Bordeaux," said Francois Mitjavile: "early, low-acid vintages that often show a heavy, animal character, and later vintages with fresh acidity and vibrant, more classic fruit flavors that some people would describe as lacking in maturity. But 2005 is the first vintage since 1982 that offers both total ripeness and freshness. There's a brilliance to the fruit in 2005. Some people have slightly underripe tannins that are well-buffered by fruit. But others have overextracted and gotten rude, hard tannins." Mitjavile noted that he did not harvest especially late in 2005, as he wanted to preserve freshness of fruit. "I only pick late in years when it's hard to ripen the fruit," he said.
00
2003
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According to Francois Mitjavile, 2003 was a terribly hot year during which the vineyards suffered. "The 2003 wines are extremely concentrated, black wines but also rude and aggressive, if not cooked," said Mitjavile. "The huge flowering in the late spring of 2004 then exhausted the vines. With the summer came an explosion of black and red septentrionale [northern in character] fruits. The problem is that it was nearly impossible to get the tannins thoroughly ripe, and the vintage has high acidity. Even here, our skins are not riper than those of 2002, but the fruit is explosive in 2004." Incidentally, Mitjavile's concept of terroir, of making a true estate wine, calls for growing the best possible fruit and then using it all: he has never made a second wine.
00
2003
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According to winemaker/philosopher Francois Mitjavile, "there is no general understanding of the 2003 vintage based on its faults and its qualities. The plant was completely disturbed during its vegetative cycle. Winemakers were also disturbed: some could have harvested too early or made the mistake of acidifying. And now early tasters are disturbed as well." Mitjavile maintains that there are three styles of wine on the Right Bank in 2003. "First, there are wines with cooked fruit and rustic tannins. But, where the plant could work until a late harvest, there are also wines with great corpulence and the kind of fresh, explosive red fruits we find in classic vintages. The third case is what we got here: a very original vintage, which does not mean something greater than the classic years. Here, 2003 brought extreme, complete maturity. We could expect Mediterranean aromas, but in fact we got Bordeaux aromas. The alcohol is very high but you don't taste it, in part because the tannins are so supple. The vintage is almost the opposite style from 2002: creamy tannins with caramelized flavors, while 2002 shows aggressive red fruits but is not as rich as 2003." Mitjavile compared the new wine to his '89, which he believes dried out slightly during its elevage "The 2003 is more evolved and more stable than the '89," he told me. More than ever before, I was struck by the extreme individuality of Le Tertre-Roteboeuf. In the ripest years, it's distinctly roasted and yet alive. "The idea of millesime is of disturbing strangeness," said Mitjavile. "It's by definition an extreme expression of appellation controlee To the end of crafting a wine that's an accurate expression of its harvest year, Mitjavile always assembles everything in the blend, including the press wine and vin de lie, during the fermentation process.
00
2002
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According to Francois Mitjavile, 2003 was a terribly hot year during which the vineyards suffered. "The 2003 wines are extremely concentrated, black wines but also rude and aggressive, if not cooked," said Mitjavile. "The huge flowering in the late spring of 2004 then exhausted the vines. With the summer came an explosion of black and red septentrionale [northern in character] fruits. The problem is that it was nearly impossible to get the tannins thoroughly ripe, and the vintage has high acidity. Even here, our skins are not riper than those of 2002, but the fruit is explosive in 2004." Incidentally, Mitjavile's concept of terroir, of making a true estate wine, calls for growing the best possible fruit and then using it all: he has never made a second wine.
00
2002
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According to winemaker/philosopher Francois Mitjavile, "there is no general understanding of the 2003 vintage based on its faults and its qualities. The plant was completely disturbed during its vegetative cycle. Winemakers were also disturbed: some could have harvested too early or made the mistake of acidifying. And now early tasters are disturbed as well." Mitjavile maintains that there are three styles of wine on the Right Bank in 2003. "First, there are wines with cooked fruit and rustic tannins. But, where the plant could work until a late harvest, there are also wines with great corpulence and the kind of fresh, explosive red fruits we find in classic vintages. The third case is what we got here: a very original vintage, which does not mean something greater than the classic years. Here, 2003 brought extreme, complete maturity. We could expect Mediterranean aromas, but in fact we got Bordeaux aromas. The alcohol is very high but you don't taste it, in part because the tannins are so supple. The vintage is almost the opposite style from 2002: creamy tannins with caramelized flavors, while 2002 shows aggressive red fruits but is not as rich as 2003." Mitjavile compared the new wine to his '89, which he believes dried out slightly during its elevage "The 2003 is more evolved and more stable than the '89," he told me. More than ever before, I was struck by the extreme individuality of Le Tertre-Roteboeuf. In the ripest years, it's distinctly roasted and yet alive. "The idea of millesime is of disturbing strangeness," said Mitjavile. "It's by definition an extreme expression of appellation controlee To the end of crafting a wine that's an accurate expression of its harvest year, Mitjavile always assembles everything in the blend, including the press wine and vin de lie, during the fermentation process.
00
2002
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"Both 2002 and 2001 were late harvests, and late harvests are never the greatest years," said Francois Mitjavile. "But on the best sites in what is essentially a northerly climate late harvests can give great ripeness and fruit complexity. And of course the best terroirs are also better able to withstand drought and ripen their fruit. The last ten days of dry weather in 2002 helped to concentrate the fruit, even if there was not a lot of photosynthesis happening." Mitjavile describes his young 2002 as a particularly vibrant wine ("the alcohol is 14.3% but you'd never know it"), the 2001 as a bit more confiture, with less intense fruit. Both vintages brought small crops here.
00
2001
2021 - 2048
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2001
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According to winemaker/philosopher Francois Mitjavile, "there is no general understanding of the 2003 vintage based on its faults and its qualities. The plant was completely disturbed during its vegetative cycle. Winemakers were also disturbed: some could have harvested too early or made the mistake of acidifying. And now early tasters are disturbed as well." Mitjavile maintains that there are three styles of wine on the Right Bank in 2003. "First, there are wines with cooked fruit and rustic tannins. But, where the plant could work until a late harvest, there are also wines with great corpulence and the kind of fresh, explosive red fruits we find in classic vintages. The third case is what we got here: a very original vintage, which does not mean something greater than the classic years. Here, 2003 brought extreme, complete maturity. We could expect Mediterranean aromas, but in fact we got Bordeaux aromas. The alcohol is very high but you don't taste it, in part because the tannins are so supple. The vintage is almost the opposite style from 2002: creamy tannins with caramelized flavors, while 2002 shows aggressive red fruits but is not as rich as 2003." Mitjavile compared the new wine to his '89, which he believes dried out slightly during its elevage "The 2003 is more evolved and more stable than the '89," he told me. More than ever before, I was struck by the extreme individuality of Le Tertre-Roteboeuf. In the ripest years, it's distinctly roasted and yet alive. "The idea of millesime is of disturbing strangeness," said Mitjavile. "It's by definition an extreme expression of appellation controlee To the end of crafting a wine that's an accurate expression of its harvest year, Mitjavile always assembles everything in the blend, including the press wine and vin de lie, during the fermentation process.
00
2001
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"Both 2002 and 2001 were late harvests, and late harvests are never the greatest years," said Francois Mitjavile. "But on the best sites in what is essentially a northerly climate late harvests can give great ripeness and fruit complexity. And of course the best terroirs are also better able to withstand drought and ripen their fruit. The last ten days of dry weather in 2002 helped to concentrate the fruit, even if there was not a lot of photosynthesis happening." Mitjavile describes his young 2002 as a particularly vibrant wine ("the alcohol is 14.3% but you'd never know it"), the 2001 as a bit more confiture, with less intense fruit. Both vintages brought small crops here.
00
2001
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Francois Mitjavile described 2001 as a "temperate, very normal growing season, featuring more regular photosynthesis than that which occurred in 2000. It was necessary to pick late in order to avoid making acid or hard wines. The character of the vintage is more red fruit than black." Beginning with 2001, Mitjavile has a new device that enables him to do gentler pumpovers ("the device puts a large mass of juice on the cap without breaking it,"), as well as a new rotating press that allows him to retain a higher percentage of solids as the wine goes into barrel. Mitjavile emphasized that the point of his elevage is to produce wine that's more evolved at the time of bottling. He generally separates the wine from its lees at the first racking in November. He may add back the lees later, "but that would be reductive, and I would rather have an oxidative development in barrel." Not surprisingly, my experience has been that Le Tertre Roteboeuf is often flamboyantly expressive in its youth and best suited for mid-term consumption.
00
2000
2021 - 2045
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2000
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"Both 2002 and 2001 were late harvests, and late harvests are never the greatest years," said Francois Mitjavile. "But on the best sites in what is essentially a northerly climate late harvests can give great ripeness and fruit complexity. And of course the best terroirs are also better able to withstand drought and ripen their fruit. The last ten days of dry weather in 2002 helped to concentrate the fruit, even if there was not a lot of photosynthesis happening." Mitjavile describes his young 2002 as a particularly vibrant wine ("the alcohol is 14.3% but you'd never know it"), the 2001 as a bit more confiture, with less intense fruit. Both vintages brought small crops here.
00
2000
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Francois Mitjavile described 2001 as a "temperate, very normal growing season, featuring more regular photosynthesis than that which occurred in 2000. It was necessary to pick late in order to avoid making acid or hard wines. The character of the vintage is more red fruit than black." Beginning with 2001, Mitjavile has a new device that enables him to do gentler pumpovers ("the device puts a large mass of juice on the cap without breaking it,"), as well as a new rotating press that allows him to retain a higher percentage of solids as the wine goes into barrel. Mitjavile emphasized that the point of his elevage is to produce wine that's more evolved at the time of bottling. He generally separates the wine from its lees at the first racking in November. He may add back the lees later, "but that would be reductive, and I would rather have an oxidative development in barrel." Not surprisingly, my experience has been that Le Tertre Roteboeuf is often flamboyantly expressive in its youth and best suited for mid-term consumption.
00
2000
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"Those who describe right-bank wines in terms of underripe/overripe are wrong," says Francois Mitjavile. "Ripening is never perfect and we need the full range of flavors: the fresher, dynamic flavors of red fruits and the deeper, more opulent licorice and cocoa notes." In 2000, which featured a tiny crop here and at his Cotes de Bourg property Roc de Cambes, "the vines used their reserves of water to develop fresher-than-normal aromas for the vintage, despite all the sun." Mitjavile did not harvest especially late in 2000. "I don't look for surmaturite," he insisted. "But I do pick very late in difficult years when the fruit really struggles to ripen. It an error to harvest with rude, rustic tannins."
00
1999
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"Those who describe right-bank wines in terms of underripe/overripe are wrong," says Francois Mitjavile. "Ripening is never perfect and we need the full range of flavors: the fresher, dynamic flavors of red fruits and the deeper, more opulent licorice and cocoa notes." In 2000, which featured a tiny crop here and at his Cotes de Bourg property Roc de Cambes, "the vines used their reserves of water to develop fresher-than-normal aromas for the vintage, despite all the sun." Mitjavile did not harvest especially late in 2000. "I don't look for surmaturite," he insisted. "But I do pick very late in difficult years when the fruit really struggles to ripen. It an error to harvest with rude, rustic tannins."
00
1999
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Every year has a weakness, notes Francois Mitjavile. "In '98, as in '88, it was rude tannins; the dry August gave rise to a classic Bordeaux style. In '99, it was the too-generous yields, which gave the wines a generous, tender character but also resulted in some dilution. The '99s are more opulent than the '98s but they are not better."
00
1998
2018 - 2030
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00
1998
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"Those who describe right-bank wines in terms of underripe/overripe are wrong," says Francois Mitjavile. "Ripening is never perfect and we need the full range of flavors: the fresher, dynamic flavors of red fruits and the deeper, more opulent licorice and cocoa notes." In 2000, which featured a tiny crop here and at his Cotes de Bourg property Roc de Cambes, "the vines used their reserves of water to develop fresher-than-normal aromas for the vintage, despite all the sun." Mitjavile did not harvest especially late in 2000. "I don't look for surmaturite," he insisted. "But I do pick very late in difficult years when the fruit really struggles to ripen. It an error to harvest with rude, rustic tannins."
00
1998
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Every year has a weakness, notes Francois Mitjavile. "In '98, as in '88, it was rude tannins; the dry August gave rise to a classic Bordeaux style. In '99, it was the too-generous yields, which gave the wines a generous, tender character but also resulted in some dilution. The '99s are more opulent than the '98s but they are not better."
00
1998
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The drought of '98 reminded Francois Mitjavile of 1988; both vintages produced wines with good color, he explained, but in both years there was the risk of hard tannins and lack of fruit. "But the best '98s have dynamic, fresh, aromatic fruit as well as flesh and charm," he says. "These wines are elegant and powerful, and not at all rude; they are the opposite of roti." Mitjavile switched over to cordon de royat after the '95 vintage, an old pruning method (typically the cordon is trained just to one side of the vine) that he says has given him smaller grapes and more concentrated fruit. The '98s here are as complete as any I've tasted from this talented winemaker: they already suggest great aromatic complexity and have the vibrancy to develop slowly and last well in bottle. Mitjavile habit of picking late has given his wines thoroughly ripe tannins. During my visit, Mitjavile compared great wine to great cigars or great coffee: "The objective is to get as much fullness and richness-and sweetness-of aromas and flavors as possible, without having bitter or intrusive tannins or acids, without having any rough edges. Rude tannins in a wine are like an off-note in a piece of music."
00
1998
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The drought of '98 reminded Francois Mitjavile of 1988; both vintages produced wines with good color, he explained, but in both years there was the risk of hard tannins and lack of fruit. "But the best '98s have dynamic, fresh, aromatic fruit as well as flesh and charm," he says. "These wines are elegant and powerful, and not at all rude; they are the opposite of roti." Mitjavile switched over to cordon de royat after the '95 vintage, an old pruning method (typically the cordon is trained just to one side of the vine) that he says has given him smaller grapes and more concentrated fruit. The '98s here are as complete as any I've tasted from this talented winemaker: they already suggest great aromatic complexity and have the vibrancy to develop slowly and last well in bottle. Mitjavile habit of picking late has given his wines thoroughly ripe tannins. During my visit, Mitjavile compared great wine to great cigars or great coffee: "The objective is to get as much fullness and richness-and sweetness-of aromas and flavors as possible, without having bitter or intrusive tannins or acids, without having any rough edges. Rude tannins in a wine are like an off-note in a piece of music."
00
1997
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The drought of '98 reminded Francois Mitjavile of 1988; both vintages produced wines with good color, he explained, but in both years there was the risk of hard tannins and lack of fruit. "But the best '98s have dynamic, fresh, aromatic fruit as well as flesh and charm," he says. "These wines are elegant and powerful, and not at all rude; they are the opposite of roti." Mitjavile switched over to cordon de royat after the '95 vintage, an old pruning method (typically the cordon is trained just to one side of the vine) that he says has given him smaller grapes and more concentrated fruit. The '98s here are as complete as any I've tasted from this talented winemaker: they already suggest great aromatic complexity and have the vibrancy to develop slowly and last well in bottle. Mitjavile habit of picking late has given his wines thoroughly ripe tannins. During my visit, Mitjavile compared great wine to great cigars or great coffee: "The objective is to get as much fullness and richness-and sweetness-of aromas and flavors as possible, without having bitter or intrusive tannins or acids, without having any rough edges. Rude tannins in a wine are like an off-note in a piece of music."
00
1997
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The drought of '98 reminded Francois Mitjavile of 1988; both vintages produced wines with good color, he explained, but in both years there was the risk of hard tannins and lack of fruit. "But the best '98s have dynamic, fresh, aromatic fruit as well as flesh and charm," he says. "These wines are elegant and powerful, and not at all rude; they are the opposite of roti." Mitjavile switched over to cordon de royat after the '95 vintage, an old pruning method (typically the cordon is trained just to one side of the vine) that he says has given him smaller grapes and more concentrated fruit. The '98s here are as complete as any I've tasted from this talented winemaker: they already suggest great aromatic complexity and have the vibrancy to develop slowly and last well in bottle. Mitjavile habit of picking late has given his wines thoroughly ripe tannins. During my visit, Mitjavile compared great wine to great cigars or great coffee: "The objective is to get as much fullness and richness-and sweetness-of aromas and flavors as possible, without having bitter or intrusive tannins or acids, without having any rough edges. Rude tannins in a wine are like an off-note in a piece of music."
00
1997
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Francois Mitjavile did not begin harvesting his '97 crop until October 4, and, according to son Louis, the fruit "definitely went into surmaturite But there also a lot of red fruit flavor and coffee torrefaction notes," he adds. The result: the '97 has a wider range of aromas than usual, despite the fact that grape sugars went up barely a half-degree in the month leading up to the harvest. Incidentally, Mitjavile's Cotes de Bourg property, Roc de Cambes, went through its malolactic fermentation in barriques in both '96 and '97.
00
1997
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Francois Mitjavile did not begin harvesting his '97 crop until October 4, and, according to son Louis, the fruit "definitely went into surmaturite But there also a lot of red fruit flavor and coffee torrefaction notes," he adds. The result: the '97 has a wider range of aromas than usual, despite the fact that grape sugars went up barely a half-degree in the month leading up to the harvest. Incidentally, Mitjavile's Cotes de Bourg property, Roc de Cambes, went through its malolactic fermentation in barriques in both '96 and '97.
00
1996
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Francois Mitjavile did not begin harvesting his '97 crop until October 4, and, according to son Louis, the fruit "definitely went into surmaturite But there also a lot of red fruit flavor and coffee torrefaction notes," he adds. The result: the '97 has a wider range of aromas than usual, despite the fact that grape sugars went up barely a half-degree in the month leading up to the harvest. Incidentally, Mitjavile's Cotes de Bourg property, Roc de Cambes, went through its malolactic fermentation in barriques in both '96 and '97.
00
1996
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Francois Mitjavile did not begin harvesting his '97 crop until October 4, and, according to son Louis, the fruit "definitely went into surmaturite But there also a lot of red fruit flavor and coffee torrefaction notes," he adds. The result: the '97 has a wider range of aromas than usual, despite the fact that grape sugars went up barely a half-degree in the month leading up to the harvest. Incidentally, Mitjavile's Cotes de Bourg property, Roc de Cambes, went through its malolactic fermentation in barriques in both '96 and '97.
00
1995
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Francois Mitjavile did not begin harvesting his '97 crop until October 4, and, according to son Louis, the fruit "definitely went into surmaturite But there also a lot of red fruit flavor and coffee torrefaction notes," he adds. The result: the '97 has a wider range of aromas than usual, despite the fact that grape sugars went up barely a half-degree in the month leading up to the harvest. Incidentally, Mitjavile's Cotes de Bourg property, Roc de Cambes, went through its malolactic fermentation in barriques in both '96 and '97.
00
1995
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Francois Mitjavile did not begin harvesting his '97 crop until October 4, and, according to son Louis, the fruit "definitely went into surmaturite But there also a lot of red fruit flavor and coffee torrefaction notes," he adds. The result: the '97 has a wider range of aromas than usual, despite the fact that grape sugars went up barely a half-degree in the month leading up to the harvest. Incidentally, Mitjavile's Cotes de Bourg property, Roc de Cambes, went through its malolactic fermentation in barriques in both '96 and '97.
00
1995
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The knockout '95 will be a mandatory purchase for fans of this singular St. Emilion. Proprietor François Mitjavile, always a late picker, did not start his harvest at Tertre-Rôteboeuf until September 28th and brought in fruit with potential alcohol of 13.3%. (In his Côte de Bourg property, Roc de Cambes, he had potential alcohol of 13.7!). While the vintage does not offer the surmaturité that characterized '89 and '90 here, there was thorough ripeness, according to Mitjavile. The two crus express themselves fully, he says; they are totally different from each other in '95. The Tertre-Rôteboeuf finishes its malolactic fermentation in new barrels; in the case of Roc de Cambes, 90% of the malo was done in barriques.
00
1994
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The knockout '95 will be a mandatory purchase for fans of this singular St. Emilion. Proprietor François Mitjavile, always a late picker, did not start his harvest at Tertre-Rôteboeuf until September 28th and brought in fruit with potential alcohol of 13.3%. (In his Côte de Bourg property, Roc de Cambes, he had potential alcohol of 13.7!). While the vintage does not offer the surmaturité that characterized '89 and '90 here, there was thorough ripeness, according to Mitjavile. The two crus express themselves fully, he says; they are totally different from each other in '95. The Tertre-Rôteboeuf finishes its malolactic fermentation in new barrels; in the case of Roc de Cambes, 90% of the malo was done in barriques.
00
1990
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1989
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1982
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