2008 Etna Rosso Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino Calderara Sottana
$180 (2023)
Italy
Etna
Sicily
Red
Nerello Mascalese (2023 vintage)
00
2008
2018 - 2028
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Hard as it is to believe, proprietor Marc de Grazia continues to ratchet up the quality at Tenuta delle Terre Nere, his property on Mount Etna. Simply put, these are the most brilliant wines I have ever tasted from de Grazia. The 2008 reds will require patience, however. With one exeption, the Don Peppino, the reds are 98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerello Cappuccio and are aged in cask. My only regret is that I was not able to taste the Vigne Niche, the estate's top white.
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2023
2027 - 2038
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Leave it to Marco de Grazia of Tenuta delle Terre Nere to take what many consider a difficult, lower-quality vintage and turn out a lineup of wines that exceeded expectations—and left this taster in awe. Interestingly, when I asked many producers how they adapted their winemaking in a challenging year like 2023, the most common answer was: “We didn’t change anything.” That’s a disappointing reality at many estates, but not here. De Grazia described 2023 as the most difficult vintage he’s experienced on Etna. Spring rains totaling around 400 millimeters triggered a devastating outbreak of downy mildew, cutting yields by up to 70% on the northern slopes. The eastern side was largely spared, which helps explain the strength of Terre Nere’s whites. The wet spring gave way to a hot, drought-stricken summer, leading to thicker skins and uneven ripening, as many vines shut down under hydric stress. Fortunately, light rains in September and ideal conditions through October helped save the harvest. The team responded with intense selection in both vineyard and cellar, followed by shorter macerations and minimal pumpovers. The resulting 2023s in bottle are some of the most exotic, finessed and elegant wines Terre Nere has ever produced. They deliver immense pleasure, but in some cases, such as the San Lorenzo, they reach a new level of depth and texture.
00
2022
2026 - 2034
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Being one of the first on the scene in Etna imparted Marco de Grazia with insights into the region that few others possess. Because of this, he’s been able to grow the Tenuta delle Terre Nere portfolio by leaps and bounds over the last 20 years while staying ahead of the curve the entire way. Over the years, de Grazia developed an extended selection of Etna Bianco and established Premier Crus and Grand Crus within his portfolio. Aside from celebrating his accomplishments, de Grazia is always the first to be blatantly honest about his failures. I’ve heard him criticize his wines more often than anyone else—that is part of what keeps him constantly in pursuit of further improvements. This year, de Grazia has completed the construction of a new barrel-aging facility dedicated to the Etna Rosso, which now allows him to mature the wine between 14 and 16 months in barrel before release (it was just shy of 12 months in the past). The entry level Etna Rosso has slowly been improving over the years, and yet the price remains remarkably fair. It's easily one of the best buys coming out of Etna today. Also, with the 2022 vintage, Terre Nere is releasing their Etna Rosso Bellacolonna from a "young vine" selection planted in 2006 and 2007 within the Calderara Sottana cru. It’s zesty and aromatic—also incredibly fresh, deep and refined. Think of this as a baby step above the Etna Rosso. As for 2022, an incredibly dry vintage partly saved by near-perfect conditions through October, some wines are warm-vintage in feel; they maintain fantastic acid balance and well-formed tannins. In many cases, the 2022s will drink sooner than the average vintage, but they deliver masses of pleasure in a harmonious package. There are several serious standouts in the lineup, such as the Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana, Dagala di Bocca d'Orzo and Guardiola. I made sure to add a “+” to several scores, as I can only imagine that they may be deserving of higher marks in years to come. Looking ahead to 2023, the winery lost about 25% of its production to downy mildew. The only wine I tasted from 2023 during this visit was the delicious Etna Rosato, produced in just 4,000 bottles versus the usual 40,000 produced.
00
2021
2026 - 2034
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Terre Nerre’s 2020s are simply off the charts. These are some of the most exciting young wines I've ever tasted from the estate, mixing power and elegance in a way that I find wildly attractive. Marco de Grazia described 2020 as a see-saw vintage with repeated abundant rains and cool weather balanced by warm and dry conditions. The results were an extended harvest and fruit with higher-than-average acidity. That acidity lends the 2020s a more accessible feel, but make no mistake, they have depths of primary fruit and a structure that promises long evolution. Some will drink sooner than others, but all possess serious cellar potential. Two thousand and twenty-one was defined by vast fluctuations in temperature that offset ripening and drought throughout the season. While the grapes achieved physiological ripeness, the thickening of the skins and lack of juice in the berries made achieving balance challenging. That said, most of the wines don’t show it anywhere near as much as I had expected. In some cases, such as Moganazzi and Feudo di Mezzo, their balance falls off through the finish. Otherwise, the portfolio presents aromatic and dazzling wines in fine form, with a distinct sense of place. Terre Nere collectors should not hesitate, especially since production was down a whopping 30%.
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2017
2023 - 2029
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2016
2021 - 2029
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2014
2018 - 2026
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A Barolo lover such as Marc de Grazia couldn’t fail to grasp the immense potential of Etna relative to the possibility of bottling many different cru wines. Thanks to volcanic eruptions that occurred over the centuries and created lava stratifications of different ages and compositions, Etna can give terroir-driven wines that are truly unique depending on exactly where the grapes are grown. De Grazia has incessantly promoted the differences and characteristics of each contrada (Etna’s cru areas) he farms. And though there are many who would much rather have preferred to turn Etna into one large catch-all denomination, De Grazia deserves immense praise for having fought this, realizing that Etna and its producers were sitting on a gold mine that just needed to be accessed correctly. His red wines can rank among Italy’s best, and in Etna’s fantastic 2014 vintage many look likely to reach epic status. The Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo is always the most immediately accessible and fleshiest of his reds, the Calderara Sottana is always the most mineral and Burgundian and the Guardiola most often embodies the best of both.
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2013
2015 - 2025
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The arrival of Calogero Statella in 2008 as winemaker (he was first in his class at the enology school of University of San Michele all’Adige) has brought Tenuta delle Terre Nere’s wines to an even higher level. The estate has a relatively short history (it was founded in 2002) but owner Marc de Grazia has patiently built it up more than 30 hectares of vineyards, which which he produces roughly 200,000 bottles a year of what are some of Italy’s most popular wines.
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2011
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2010
2015 - 2025
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The Etna boasts two reference point producers and a number of emerging growers. Along with Andrea Franchetti, proprietor Marco de Grazia continues to make compelling wines that set the standard for the Etna. De Grazia's 2010s are a bit more ethereal than the 2009s, which have a little more mid-palate depth, but also a bit less finesse in my view. Both vintages have their strengths. I followed these wines over the greater part of a day and can report they perform best with 4-6 hours of aeration.
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2008
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Also recommended: 2009 Etna Rosato (86). (A Marc de Grazia Selection; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY and Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA; Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville, Illinois)
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2007
2013 - 2027
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Proprietor Marc de Grazia is one of the pioneers of the Etna. Not only was he among the first producers to recognize the value of these once-forgotten, ancient terroirs, he also was the first producer to bring attention to the specific qualities of these vineyards by bottling single-parcel Nerellos that have become reference-point wines for the Etna.
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2006
2013 - 2022
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This lineup from Tenuta delle Terre Nere is one of the most impressive I tasted. Brothers Marc and Iano De Grazia seem to be hitting their stride with these new releases. The wines show great balance and tons of expressiveness, something that is enhanced by an enlightened use of French oak.
00
2006
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