2004 Comtes de Champagne

These new releases from Taittinger are positively stellar. The 2012 Comtes de Champagne Rosé, in particular, is magnificent. I also tasted a few older wines, which are included here for further reference.

These new releases from Taittinger are positively stellar. The 2012 Comtes de Champagne Rosé, in particular, is magnificent. I also tasted a few older wines, which are included here for further reference.

It was fun to revisit a few older releases that Taittinger offered this year in a boxed set that includes the two new wines, the 2012 Comtes de Champagne and 2009 Comtes de Champagne Rosé.

It was fun to revisit a few older releases that Taittinger offered this year in a boxed set that includes the two new wines, the 2012 Comtes de Champagne and 2009 Comtes de Champagne Rosé.

It was fun to revisit a few older releases that Taittinger offered this year in a boxed set that includes the two new wines, the 2012 Comtes de Champagne and 2009 Comtes de Champagne Rosé.

Taittinger's 2007s are more than worthy followups to the 2006s. The 2007s are softer and more giving than the 2006s, which is not a bad thing at all. Despite a relatively small production for a larger house, the flagship Comtes de Champagne continues to fly under the radar. It remains the single best value (if that word can be used) in high-end Champagne. Best of all, Comtes has a track record for aging with sublime grace and finesse.

Readers visiting Piedmont should carve out the time to go to Guido at the Relais San Maurizio. The hotel is wonderful too, should you not want to leave. Andrea Alciati, Monica Magnani and the team at Guido are at the top of their game.

Two thousand six is destined to go down as an important year in the modern-day history of Taittinger. Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger succeeded in buying the winery from the Starwood Hotel Group and bringing it under family control once again. He also made two fabulous tête de cuvées. The 2006 Comtes de Champagne in particular is going to make a very strong case for inclusion in any conversation about the all-time great vintages of Comtes. In addition to the current releases, I also tasted the 1995, which is showing very well today.

Taittinger seems to be on a huge tear of late. The wines have never been better. Of course, the Taittinger is best known for their tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne, but over the last year or two I have seen a significant improvement in the entry-level wines. Later in 2013 Taittinger will add an ID code to their back labels that will allow consumers to learn more about the makeup of the NV Champagnes (including the base vintage), a great move in my opinion. I would be remiss if I didn't take a moment to comment on the last two wines I tasted during my March visit. The first was the 1989 Comtes de Champagne (original release), a vintage that was generally overlooked in favor of 1988 and 1990. I always encourage readers to buy the producer first and the vintage second. This bottle was a perfect example of why that is a smart approach. Today, the 1989 Comtes is marvelously complete and totally striking. I would be thrilled to own it! The second bottle was also 1989 Comtes, but disgorged à la volée, which means with no dosage. It has become fashionable in some circles to insist that lower dosage is better. Not so. Taste can be the only guide. Judicious winemakers know sugar is a preservative and hopefully have the experience to make the right decisions. In this case, the original release was stunning, the a la vole disgorgement was harsh and difficult to enjoy, despite the obvious pedigree of the wine. Dosage in the late 1980s was about 12-13 grams, I would say perfect for this wine.

Taittinger seems to be on a huge tear of late. The wines have never been better. Of course, the Taittinger is best known for their tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne, but over the last year or two I have seen a significant improvement in the entry-level wines. Later in 2013 Taittinger will add an ID code to their back labels that will allow consumers to learn more about the makeup of the NV Champagnes (including the base vintage), a great move in my opinion. I would be remiss if I didn't take a moment to comment on the last two wines I tasted during my March visit. The first was the 1989 Comtes de Champagne (original release), a vintage that was generally overlooked in favor of 1988 and 1990. I always encourage readers to buy the producer first and the vintage second. This bottle was a perfect example of why that is a smart approach. Today, the 1989 Comtes is marvelously complete and totally striking. I would be thrilled to own it! The second bottle was also 1989 Comtes, but disgorged à la volée, which means with no dosage. It has become fashionable in some circles to insist that lower dosage is better. Not so. Taste can be the only guide. Judicious winemakers know sugar is a preservative and hopefully have the experience to make the right decisions. In this case, the original release was stunning, the a la vole disgorgement was harsh and difficult to enjoy, despite the obvious pedigree of the wine. Dosage in the late 1980s was about 12-13 grams, I would say perfect for this wine.

Taittinger's 2002 Comtes de Champagne is the clear head of the class among the estate's new and upcoming releases. It is easily one of the very best Champagnes I have ever tasted, and simply a must-have wine.

While current distancing measures are in place, we must do without the thrill of the crowd. That does not necessarily preclude us from enjoying a meal out, however, and I had a thoroughly pleasant evening in every way, one that meant a lot after months in hibernation.

I won’t soon forget this spectacular dinner at Ristorante Osteria Carletti, a cozy restaurant/inn located in Bedano, Switzerland. For the occasion, dear friends in Lugano surprised me with a number of stunning wines and personal favorites. What a lineup!

This wine was tasted over dinner at Eleven Madison Park during the Charity Dinner of La Festa Del Barolo 2013.

Taittinger's 2002 Comtes de Champagne is the clear head of the class among the estate's new and upcoming releases. It is easily one of the very best Champagnes I have ever tasted, and simply a must-have wine.

I tasted a wide range of outstanding wines during my recent visit at Taittinger, including a handful of upcoming releases of the flagship Comtes de Champagne. I don't often hear much of a of buzz about Comtes de Champagnes, but the cognoscenti know this is one of the very best and most ageworthy wines in Champagne. As much as I admire the work Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger and his team are doing, it would be nice to see the Taittinger their NV wines with disgorgement dates, or at the very least lot numbers that actually convey something of real meaning to the consumer.

Taittinger is one of Champagne's most consistent large brands. The flagship Comtes de Champagne and Comtes de Champagne Rosé, two of the finest wines in the region, sometimes fly under the radar, but they are both super-pedigreed wines with brilliant track records for developing considerable complexity in bottle. Readers who want to learn more about the estate and Comtes in particular may want to take a look at my article on this site published earlier in the year. Taittinger does so many things well, but it would be great to see the estate add disgorgement dates to its labels.

This is a very solid set of wines from Taittinger.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Taittinger is one of Champagne's historic houses. The estate is best know for its Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne, a wine that has a strong track record of developing beautifully in bottle, often for several decades after release. While a few bottles in the range aren't quite up to par, in aggregate this is an impressive showing for a house of this scale.

With its seafood focused menu and bright décor, Bar Le Côte is a very welcome addition to the Santa Barbara wine country dining scene.

This wine was part of a retrospective tasting 1996 Champagne – For The Ages.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Also recommended: NV Prestige Rose Brut (86). Other wines tasted: NV Nocturne Sec*.

Two thousand six is destined to go down as an important year in the modern-day history of Taittinger. Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger succeeded in buying the winery from the Starwood Hotel Group and bringing it under family control once again. He also made two fabulous tête de cuvées. The 2006 Comtes de Champagne in particular is going to make a very strong case for inclusion in any conversation about the all-time great vintages of Comtes. In addition to the current releases, I also tasted the 1995, which is showing very well today.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Previously reviewed: 1995 Comte de Champagne Rose Brut (94)

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

This magical evening continued into a delicious dinner blessed with a stunning array of wines. The menu, prepared by Grissini Restaurant and served al fresco, was simple, tasty and very nicely done, as always.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

This magical evening continued into a delicious dinner blessed with a stunning array of wines. The menu, prepared by Grissini Restaurant and served al fresco, was simple, tasty and very nicely done, as always.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Planque is a fine addition to the London dining landscape. There was a buzzy atmosphere and a satisfying feeling of dining a bit geographically off-piste in a hideaway den that only you and your mates know about.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

This wine was tasted over dinner at Alto in New York City, April 2008.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Taittinger's tête de cuvée Comtes de Champagne seems to fly under the radar among the region's elite bottles. Savvy consumers know better, though. Comtes de Champagnes is one of the most profound wines readers will come across, particularly with some bottle age. First produced in 1952, Comtes de Champagne has built a track record of excellence equaled by very few Champagnes.

I recently had an opportunity to sit down with proprietor Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger to taste through a dizzying array of older vintages. This tasting was quite special, as a number of bottles were shipped over directly from the estate, guaranteeing perfect provenance. Many of the wines were tasted from recently disgorged bottles. Champagne fans know Taittinger does not offer a late-release/late-disgorged program as the house prefers to issue their wines and then ‘let them live their own lives' to paraphrase Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger. Older vintages are quite rare at Taittinger. It's hard to believe, but the estate began holding back significant quantities of their wines only within the last 20-25 years. So, the late-disgorged bottles in this article – which I have referred to as ‘RD' – are not available in the market. I apologize in advance for reviewing wines readers will not be able to purchase! Still, I thought it was quite instructive to taste the wines, particularly where it was possible to compare the regular release with the ‘RDs'. All of the ‘RD' bottlings were disgorged in late 2009 and shipped over by the estate specifically for this tasting. As one might expect, the ‘RD' wines were quite youthful and fresh, but I have not included maturity dates for those wines as I have no way of knowing how they will age…unless Pierre-Emanuel Taittinger repeats this tasting with the unopened bottles in a few years' time!

Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay sourced from Oger, Cramant, Avize, Mesnil and Chouilly, all Grand Cru villages, although in some years the estate has also employed vineyards in the Premier Cru village Pierry. Taittinger uses only the juice from the first pressing for Comtes. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and roughly 5% of the juice is aged in oak. The total production of Comtes de Champagne ranges from 100,000-300,000 bottles per year.

In the 1970s dosage was often in the 17 grams per liter range. Today dosage is closer to 9-10 grams per liter. Like many houses, Taittinger has lowered dosage over the years in response to warmer growing seasons and overall improved viticultural practices, both of which have resulted in generally riper fruit than was the case in the past. In recent years it has become fashionable to criticize Champagnes with high levels of dosage. Readers who are unhappy with how their wines from 1971, 1973 or 1976 have aged are welcome to send their bottles my way…

Young Comtes de Champagne is intensely mineral and focused, with bright citrus, minerals and flowers dominating the flavor profile. As it ages, Comtes often acquires a signature liqueur-like inner sweetness that is not found in any other mature Champagne. Readers who are familiar with aged Comtes know well the magical qualities the wine acquires over time. At its finest, Comtes is a totally beguiling, compelling Champagne with few peers.

Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne Rosé is an equally brilliant wine with its own impressive track record for developing beautifully in bottle. In its early years the estate's Rosé was made from 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly vinified off the skins, but with the addition of a percentage of still red Pinot. Today it is made through the assemblage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a percentage of still Pinot, with Pinot accounting for the majority of the blend.

Tasted over lunch at Del Posto Ristorante in New York City, December 2007.

Tasted over lunch at Del Posto Ristorante in New York City, December 2007.