2009 Toscana Sangiovese

It remains one of the greatest tastings I have ever been a part of, either as an attendee or a host. Forty-six wines, all of them in superb shape. Even wines from smaller or less well-known vintages were sublime. Not a single bottle was corked or oxidized. The memories from this retrospective of Gianfranco Soldera’s wines will last forever. Readers will find extensive historical context in the article that accompanies these tasting notes.

Things are slowly getting back to normal at Soldera following a dramatic act of vandalism that resulted in the near total loss of wines from the 2007-2012 vintages when a disgruntled former employee opened the spigots of the casks and let the work of seven harvests disappear down the drain. The wines I tasted from cask are a testament to Gianfranco Soldera's indomitable spirit. The 2014, of which there is just one cask, is absolutely stunning, as are the two casks of the 2013 I was able to taste. The next releases are the 2012 and 2011, both bottled in miniscule quantities and set to be sold together next year, and the 2009, which was just bottled and will be released imminently. Soldera did not show the 2009, as he felt the wine needed more time in bottle. Lastly, the tiny amount of 2010 that Soldera was able to salvage will be bottled in five or so sets of large format bottles (ranging from magnum to 18-liter) that will be sold at auction for charity.

Gianfranco Soldera has been through a lot in the last few years, including a devastating act of vandalism in 2012 as well as numerous political scuffles with his peers in Montalcino, the most recent of which was a lawsuit by the producers' Consorzio that was dismissed in his favor. Still, at 78 years of age, Soldera looks as determined as ever. Production will be way down again in 2014, but that is the result of a challenging growing season and severe selection at harvest that resulted in a projected 5,000 bottles of Sangiovese from ten hectares of vineyards in a single wine made from the best fruit of both the Case Basse and Intistieti vineyards. Yields are more normal in 2013. Indeed, the two casks of 2013 Sangiovese I tasted were superb. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010 or 2012, but there is always next time. Readers should note that following his most recent disagreement with the Consorzio, which included, among other things, being kicked out of the Consorzio, Soldera has decided to release all of his new wines as Toscana Sangiovese. These are the same wines that would have previously been released as Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. As always, these remain some of the most compelling and transcendental wines being made anywhere in the world. Sadly, though, prices have essentially doubled. Soldera fans might also enjoy this recent vertical tasting going back to the 1980s.