2008 Toscana Sangiovese

It remains one of the greatest tastings I have ever been a part of, either as an attendee or a host. Forty-six wines, all of them in superb shape. Even wines from smaller or less well-known vintages were sublime. Not a single bottle was corked or oxidized. The memories from this retrospective of Gianfranco Soldera’s wines will last forever. Readers will find extensive historical context in the article that accompanies these tasting notes.

Gianfranco Soldera has been through a lot in the last few years, including a devastating act of vandalism in 2012 as well as numerous political scuffles with his peers in Montalcino, the most recent of which was a lawsuit by the producers' Consorzio that was dismissed in his favor. Still, at 78 years of age, Soldera looks as determined as ever. Production will be way down again in 2014, but that is the result of a challenging growing season and severe selection at harvest that resulted in a projected 5,000 bottles of Sangiovese from ten hectares of vineyards in a single wine made from the best fruit of both the Case Basse and Intistieti vineyards. Yields are more normal in 2013. Indeed, the two casks of 2013 Sangiovese I tasted were superb. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010 or 2012, but there is always next time. Readers should note that following his most recent disagreement with the Consorzio, which included, among other things, being kicked out of the Consorzio, Soldera has decided to release all of his new wines as Toscana Sangiovese. These are the same wines that would have previously been released as Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. As always, these remain some of the most compelling and transcendental wines being made anywhere in the world. Sadly, though, prices have essentially doubled. Soldera fans might also enjoy this recent vertical tasting going back to the 1980s.

I have now been back to Case Basse twice since a disgruntled, former employee broke into the winery and opened the spigots of the casks, emptying nearly six entire vintages of Brunello down the drain. Things seem to be slowly getting back to normal, which is great for fans of this venerable property. But there are important changes, too. After his latest skirmish with the producers' Consorzio, Soldera is now bottling all of his wines as Toscana Sangiovese, no longer Brunello di Montalcino. There are two new releases scheduled for September, small amounts of 2007 and 2008 that were essentially small barrels of topping wine that weren't destroyed during the break in. Sadly, prices have doubled, which will make these new releases both hard to find and super-expensive. Still, there is no denying Soldera's wines remain totally unique, and at their best, simply thrilling.