2004 Sociando-Mallet
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This superb property is normally the first visit of my spring Bordeaux tour, but this year it was my first Medoc visit following a week on the Right Bank. It offered quite a change of pace, as here "it was the cabernet sauvignon that made the wine, while the merlot degraded quickly in the September rain," according to proprietor Jean Gautreau. "We did a lot of selection, especially in merlot," he added. "Our gravelly soils produced the healthiest grapes." Incidentally, Gautreau has expanded his holdings with the purchase of another 15 hectares of land (he now owns 92), including some cabernet sauvignon vines planted in 1962.
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"We had a brief hot spell in mid-July, but even then the nights were cool," said proprietor Jean Gautreau. "It was a year of sun, but more classic than a hot year." Gautreau compared the young 2005 to the estate's 1990, but admitted that it’s a bit too early to know the true character of the new wine. Gautreau told me that the method of receiving the grapes was improved for the 2005 harvest, and that a more careful selection can now be done when the fruit comes in. He also noted that he has recently planted more cabernet sauvignon, and that the percentage of cabernet in the grand vin will increase as the vines mature. At Sociando, interestingly, the 2005 has a slightly higher pH than the 2003 (3.75, vs. 3.7), which is a comment both on the full ripeness of 2005 and on the success of the Northern Médoc in 2003.
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Proprietor Jean Gautreau described 2004 as having "very classic fruit: honest, straightforward, very Medoc, cabernet-dominated." He noted that Sociando-Mallet today is really a selection parcellaire. "We know by now which parts of our vineyard will make up the grand vin from the moment of the harvest, and which parts will go into our second wine."
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