2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewachs

As if it had been kissed back to life after a generation in a coma, this estate has risen over the past four years under the direction of its new prince, Christian Witte. Long an icon in the Rheingau, the Schloss Johannisberg, like most of its aristocratic peers, had long been eclipsed by younger, more dynamic neighbors. Although I amply praised the 2006s in these pages last year, the stunning 2007 collection sets a new benchmark for Johannisberg, perhaps even for the Rheingau. From the simplest dry riesling to the impeccable TBA, there is not a poor-or even average-wine in the lot. This is without doubt one of the best performances of the vintage, giving the estate the wherewithal to add a few more superb bottles to the large selection of old wines maturing in the bibliotheca subterranea, as Johannisberg calls its stellar reserve cellar. (Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK) Also recommended: 2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Trocken (87), 2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Kabinett Trocken (88), 2007 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Feinherb (88).