2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Omnia

The southern Rhône wines made by this Beaune-based husband-and-wife duo clearly show their Burgundy roots. Even in hot years such as 2018 and 2017, these renditions of Châteauneuf-du-Pape are among the most aromatically complex, silken-textured and vibrant being made today. The Saoumas apply their Burgundy winemaking techniques to (mostly) Grenache with great success, using whole clusters and long, cold fermentations. They let the wines rest undisturbed in predominantly neutral oak barrels of varying size. Some clay amphoras are thrown in for good measure. That resting period can stretch out to three years, depending on the vintage, because the Saoumas are in no hurry to rush their wines into bottle. The results are consistently outstanding and often downright stunning, with the wines from both 2017 and the 2018 showing highly perfumed bouquets, fruit expressions of great intensity and purity. The harmonious tannins make them delicious even now. But do try to resist temptation, because I have no doubt that they are built for the long run. Or just ignore me and enjoy them now; I won’t judge.

Rotem & Mounir Saouma’s wines show some of the most distinctly elegant and complex character of the region. This will come as no surprise to wine lovers who have had the good luck to drink the superb négociant Burgundies they produce at their Lucien Le Moine cellar in Beaune. Even in ripe years like 2017 and 2016, the Saoumas’ wines exude vibrant berry, floral and spice character, with sneaky depth and the balance to age. Release schedules here are never static and Rotem and Mounir “never let a schedule dictate what the wine wants to be. It’s ready when it wants to be ready, not when we tell it to be,” said Mounir.