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One of my favorite places to eat during my Burgundy barrel tastings is Le Bistro de l’Hôtel, located in central Beaune overlooking Place Carnot. Established in 2007 by Stockholm-born Johan Bjorkland, it is upmarket yet unpretentious.
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Roederer is one of the most impressive wineries in Champagne. To the outside world, the image is one of total luxury. But behind the scenes, things are totally different. One of the biggest differentiators here is a very high reliance on estate-grown fruit. Purchased fruit is used only for the Brut Reserve, all of the other wines are made exclusively from estate-owned vineyards, something that is virtually unheard of at this level. Roederer is also the single largest owner of biodynamically farmed vineyards in Champagne. During my recent trip, I heard more than one vigneron refer to Roederer's viticulture as 'grower in culture,' which was pretty incredible. After many years of prodding, I am also delighted to report that Roederer has introduced a smartphone app that allows consumers to get more information on the house's wines by simply taking a photo of the back label. It is great to see this added level of transparency and leadership from Roederer, one of the great, great names in Champagne. Lastly, Roederer fans will note the debut of the Brut Nature, Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon's newest project.
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Roederer is one of the most impressive properties in Champagne. I can't think of another winery that so manages to do so many things so well. Roederer and the flagship Cristal embody the luxury of grand marque Champagne, but once you look past the veneer of glitz, what impresses most is the total attention to detail in both the vineyards and winery. One of the few family-owned grand marques in Champagne, Roederer sits squarely at the intersection of so many aspects that make Champagne a fascinating region. Chef de Caves jean-Baptiste Lecaillon is fastidious in his attention to detail. Among other things, Lecaillon has overseen a gradual transition to biodynamic farming that today makes Roederer the single largest farmer of biodynamic vineyards in Champagne. Roederer still buys outside fruit, but Cristal and Cristal Rosé are estate wines. A zero-dosage Champagne has been in the works for a few years, but has not been commercially released yet. As for Cristal, it can be deceptively accessible when young, but ages exceptionally well. In short, Roederer seems to pretty much do everything well, and that is a huge testament to the passion of Lecaillon and the Rouzaud family.
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