2008 Cristal Rosé (magnum)

Roederer has a number of superb Champagnes in the market this year. The 2008 Cristal and Cristal Rosé are every bit as thrilling as they have been in previous tastings. The maison is also re-releasing the 2002 Cristal and Cristal Rosé. These are the same exact wines as the first releases. Lastly, the 1996 Cristal Vinothèque and 1996 Cristal Rosé Vinothèque represent the latest in the house’s evolution. The Vinothèque Champagnes are quite different from the first and second releases, as explained in the tasting notes below. When all is said and done, under the direction of Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Roederer is one of the most ambitious and exciting producers in Champagne, big or small.

Roederer is among the houses that are releasing their 2009 tête de cuvées ahead of the 2008s. After having tasted the wines, that seems like a wise choice, as the 2009s are quite giving, while the 2008s are likely to require quite a bit of cellaring. These are four stellar wines. Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon and his team are doing brilliant work as they combine an artisan spirit of viticulture (especially with regards to biodynamic farming) and winemaking with the world of high-end, luxury cuvées. Champagne is full of talented winemakers, but Lécaillon is the only Chef de Caves I know of whose intellect and curiosity extends to the broader universe of wine rather than being limited to Champagne alone. That more worldly view comes through in brilliant Champagnes that are often at the top of the pack, as they are again in both 2009 and 2008. Simply put, Roederer's 2009s and 2008s are must-haves for serious Champagne drinkers.