2017 Baffonero
Italy
Gavorrano, Maremma
Tuscany
Red
Merlot (2022 vintage)
00
2017
2023 - 2037
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I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted this year from Rocca di Frassinello and proprietor Paolo Panerai. The flagship Merlot Baffonero has been superb in several tastings over the last handful of months, which is pretty remarkable considering all of the challenges presented by the 2017 growing season. The 2018s are consistent across the board. I found the entry-level offerings to be quite strong, something that has not always been the case.
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2022
2027 - 2037
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This is a gorgeous set of wines from Rocca di Frassinello, especially in light of a challenging growing season marked by heavy rain and constant disease pressure. Harvest for Sangiovese stretched well into October, an extreme rarity in the Tuscan Maremma. In tasting, the 2023s turned out quite well. Low yields were likely a blessing in disguise.
00
2021
2027 - 2036
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These new releases from Rocca di Frassinello are highly instructive. Most of the wines are 2022s, wines that show how well this vintage turned out in certain sites. Proximity to the ocean proved to be critical in moderating the brutal heat and drought that were so challenging in some spots.
00
2020
2025 - 2035
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This is a fine set of new releases from Rocca di Frassinello. Proprietor Paolo Panerai has his sights set high, especially for the flagship Merlot Baffonero. The wines increasingly deliver, on all fronts, from the more modest offerings all the way to the top. These sleek, racy Maremma reds offer plenty of richness but in a style that provides tons of energy as well.
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2019
2025 - 2039
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I was quite impressed with these new releases from Rocca di Frassinello. The new Rocca di Frassinello San Germano, from vineyard planted on what was once an Etruscan settlement, is one of the best wines I have ever tasted here. There is also a new Bianco (Vermentino), but it is the reds here that ultimately steal the show. "Two thousand-nineteen was a pretty classic year for the coast," winemaker Alessandro Cellai recounted. It was a bit hotter than 2018, which was a very late year. In 2020 we had a bit of frost. That, in turn, lowered yields and resulted in wines with an extra kick of concentration."
00
2019
2025 - 2039
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I was quite impressed with these new releases from Rocca di Frassinello. The new Rocca di Frassinello San Germano, from vineyard planted on what was once an Etruscan settlement, is one of the best wines I have ever tasted here. There is also a new Bianco (Vermentino), but it is the reds here that ultimately steal the show. "Two thousand-nineteen was a pretty classic year for the coast," winemaker Alessandro Cellai recounted. It was a bit hotter than 2018, which was a very late year. In 2020 we had a bit of frost. That, in turn, lowered yields and resulted in wines with an extra kick of concentration. "
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2018
2024 - 2038
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2016
2021 - 2031
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This is a terrific set of wines from proprietor Paolo Panerai and longtime oenologist Alessandro Cellai. The entry-level wines offer good value, but the sweet spot lies in the Ornello and Rocca di Frassinello, both of which are especially fine in 2016.
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2015
2020 - 2030
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These are some of the very best wines I have tasted from proprietor Paolo Panerai and his long time winemaker, Alessandro Cellai. The 2015s are rich and deep, as these wines always are, but they also have quite a bit of nuance to them as well.
00
2014
2016 - 2021
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These new releases from Rocca di Frassinello show just how challenging the 2014 vintage was. Sadly, the 2014s offer only modest depth and complexity throughout the range.
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2013
2017 - 2025
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Proprietor Paolo Panerai and longtime winemaker Alessandro Cellai continue to steadily elevate quality at Rocca di Frassinello. The estate's 2013s are terrific. As usual, the Rocca di Frassinello wines are made in a forward, modern Maremma style with plenty of up-front appeal. Also tasted: 2014 Vermentino
00
2012
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2012
2014 - 2019
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This is a decidedly mixed set of wines from Rocca di Frassinello. Proprietor Paolo Panerai and his long-time winemaker Alessandro Cellai have long made magnificent wines at Castellare. The most recent wines I have tasted from their project in Sicily show considerable progress. For some reason, though, these wines from Frassinello are underwhelming.
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2010
2015 - 2025
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2009
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2009
2014 - 2024
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This is another strong set of wines from proprietor Paolo Panerai and long- time winemaker Alessandro Cellai. I find it interesting that Panerai pursues a much more refined approach at Castellare, his legacy Tuscan winery, than at Rocca di Frassinello, where the wines are made in a more full- throttle style that pushes the edge of ripeness.
00
2008
2013 - 2023
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Proprietor Paolo Panerai is a bit of a Renaissance man. Panerai publishes Milano Finanza, Italy's equivalent of Barrons (for which he also writes one of that country's most widely read editorial columns), publishes a number of other more lifestyle oriented magazines and has joint ventures with CNBC and Bloomberg, to list a few of his business interests. Oh, and he makes pretty good wines, too. Since the 1970s Panerai and his family have owned Castellare, one of the leading estates in Chianti Classico. More recently, Panerai has set his sights on making first-rate wines in Maremma through this joint venture with the Rothschild family. Rocca di Frassinello is a young winery, and the best is clearly yet to come.
00
2008
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2007
2013 - 2022
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Quality continues to move up at Rocca Di Frassinello. I was particularly struck with a new wine, the 2008 Ornello, which offers tons of pedigree for the money.
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