2014 Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard

According to Kevin Harvey, the key to 2014 and 2013 is that while both vintages, were warmer than historical averages, temperatures cooled down during August and September to the point that conditions were not excessively hot during harvest, which is, of course, the most critical time of the year. That said, yields in 2014 were the lowest of the three drought vintages of 2012-2014, with a bit more overall stress in the vineyards given the length of the cycle. The conditions resulted in a set of powerful, intense wines. Harvey adds that acids were generally higher than 2013, but not as high as 2012. The Pinots are brooding, while the Chardonnays are bold and very-ripe. The Chardonnays are notoriously slow agers. I will be surprised if they are not even better with a few years' time. The other big news at Rhys is Kevin Harvey's new Carricante project on Sicily's Mount Etna. Harvey told me he thinks Carricante is the world's third most pedigreed white variety after Chardonnay and Riesling. As much as I admire Carricante, there doesn't seem to be enough data to support that view, as good as Benanti's older Pietra Marina bottlings can be. The first Carricante from Harvey's new Aeris label is attractive, but it is also a work in progress. Still, given Harvey's track record at Rhys, I have little doubt he and partner/winemaker Salvo Foti will soon be making distinguished whites in Sicily as well.

Proprietor Kevin Harvey and winemaker Jeff Brinkman have turned out another stellar set of wines. The 2013 Pinot Noirs have largely turned as I had expected, but I was also quite taken with the 2012 Chardonnays and Syrahs, all of which merit serious attention. Despite an unusually cool May that appeared to reduce the crop early on, yields in 2013 turned out to be higher than in 2012. Some of the 2013 Pinots have softened a bit since I last tasted them about eight months ago, which leads me to think they may drink better earlier than I had originally envisioned. Time will tell. I also tasted a handful of 2014s from barrel that will be offered as futures within the next few months. Based on the wines I saw, I will not be surprised if the 2014 Pinots surpass the 2013s. The only issue is going to availability, as production is down sharply vis-a-vis 2012 and 2013. Kevin Harvey has brought a savvy, long-time collector's palate and a total commitment to excellence to Rhys, along with the significant personal resources to execute on his vision. With each passing vintage, the wines continue to improve to the point where comparisons to the best estates in California are increasingly less relevant. Rhys is world class. It's as simple as that.