2015 Meursault (Rouge)

The transformation that has taken place at Remoissenet over the last handful of years has been truly remarkable. When the Milstein family bought the winery in 2005, Remoissenet was an old-school négociant house with negligible vineyard holdings that mostly bought wines in barrel. Today, the current team led by President Pierre-Antoine Rovani, General Manager Bernie Repolt, Vineyard Manager Fred Le Prince and Winemaker Claudie Jobard have transformed Remoissenet into much more of a domaine. Farming is directly controlled in most of the key parcels (especially among the reds) through ownership or the métayage and fermage arrangements that are common in Burgundy. That focus on quality is pretty evident. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted on my most recent visit. The 2016s are aromatically intense, fresh and more nuanced than the wines have been in the past. At this stage, it is hard to say if that is the personality of the year, or if there is a stylistic shift underway at Remoissenet, but there is a translucence to the 2016s that is hugely appealing. Unfortunately, I did not taste the Beaune 1er Crus, the Nuits villages or the Savigny 1er Cru, as those wines were bottled just prior to my visit. The bottled 2015s are rich Burgundies that capture the natural radiance of the year. - Antonio Galloni