2003 Zinfandel Dickerson Vineyard Napa Valley

With its large number of limited old-vines zinfandel cuvees covering numerous appellations, Ravenswood is an excellent indicator of the quality of a given vintage.In fact, winemaker Joel Peterson describes 2003 as a tough harvest due to extreme heat toward the end, but he pointed out that the heat spikes, and the resulting dehydration, affected cabernet and merlot more than zinfandel, which was closer to being picked.In order to maintain high quality in zinfandel, Peterson declassified numerous lots with harder, greener tannins into his Vintner's Blend, which is normally a softer wine.Still, alcohol levels tend to be a bit higher than those in 2002 (they are typically between 14.3% and 15.1% in '03), as there were more withered berries.But acid levels are sound, he added. Besides, Peterson added, a bit of desiccation gives zinfandel greater concentration, like a saignee.Peterson showed me final blends, but he noted that the wines will get a bit more new oak ("we want to sweeten the center of the wines") before they are bottled in June.